Crag X | ClimbNZ

Type

Altitude

300m

Part of

Location

On the eastern side of Mt Pleasant just south of the summit ridge, and just west of the old World War II concrete gun emplacements. The crag faces west, and runs south from the zig-zags in the track.

Climate

There's good shelter from the north-east, and it's nice and sunny on a winter afternoon. It can be hot in summer. It's exposed to the south, but there's a degree of shelter in a north-wester, though others would be preferred.

Climbing

Climb grades range from 14 to 24, concentrated in grades 19-21, and many are excellent climbs. Most routes are well protected, many with bolts, but three of the oldest routes, on the right end of the cliff, are awaiting re-bolting and the bolts may not be safe.

The rock is the coarse-grained Mt Pleasant trachyte, which gives excellent friction. As with all the Mt Pleasant cliffs, beware of loose flakes, especially as many climbs have had only a few ascents.

History

The initial climbing by Brian Fish and Joe Arts in 1981 of five routes on the south-facing right hand end was an odd quirk in the development of Christchurch climbing. At Lyttelton Rock, Scratching Julius, which was the catalyst for development of that crag, had not yet been done. To reach Crag X more accessible crags were bypassed, and the largest part of the crag was ignored. Little wonder that the crag was mostly left alone for a decade, until Joe Arts started a second phase of development in 1991-92, of which the notable route was the crag's showpiece, Gripping Scales.

Finally, in October 1997 Lindsay Main and Joe Arts set some kind of a record by doing eight new routes during one hot spring day to clean up most of the obvious remaining lines.

Walktime

15 min

Aspect

West

Lat/lon

-43.591213,172.733865, NZ Topo Map

Topo50

BX24 785 733

Approach

Approaches
The fastest approach is to park on the Summit Road at the pine trees and walk south across Greenwood Park, southward along the vehicle track to the gun emplacements. Cross the fence at an old sign and pick up the track that zig-zags downward the gully toward Lyttlelton.

You can also park at the Major Hornbrook Track, as for Lyttelton Rock, and walk along the Bluffs Track. However this is quite long.

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	Pig In A Poke, 16	16			0
P1 16 Trad Starts on the left of the crag and seeks the difficulties - very contrived. Move up and right, then up over a bulge into a crack. Carry on up the arete with good pro, exiting just to the left. Lindsay Main '97
	Fun In The Sun, 14	14			1.02
P1 14 Trad A lovely route on good rock at the left end of the crag. Start up a steep short wall just left of the low-level 45 degree roof, moving right three metres up. Continue up and right to exit in the steep crack. Excellent natural pro. Lindsay Main '97
	X Foliate, 17	17	20m		0
Climb the slab just right of hairline crack. Move left and up through bushes to sharp low angled arete. Climb up the left side of this to an overhang down and left of skyline V notch. Move up and left to good position on prominent prow, and up. Good climbing once past the trees. Two ropes and slings handy. The finish is good. P1 17 20m Trad
	Out Of Control, 14	14			1.02
P1 14 Trad Start up an easy corner with a harder move just below a ledge with a small tree. Move left and up a slab to exit. Originally soloed but should be protectable. Lindsay Main '97
	When You're Hot You're Hot, 20	20		2	0
P1 20 2 Trad Done in 28 degree heat. Start below the corner of Be My Guest and boulder up a few moves (pro), then swing left a metre or so to a rat-hole which takes a 3« Friend. (Take care not to fall off into the matagouri). Then up the wall into the groove past two bolts. Rightward to the arete and finish directly up over blocks. You should top out at a very large anchor boulder. Lindsay Main '97
	Be My Guest, 18	18			0
P1 18 Trad Ascends the obvious right-facing corner, but start a couple of metres right and follow good holds up to the corner and pro. Move right to clip the second bolt of Modern World, then up and flail around for some jugs on the arete. Finish right to the anchor chain. Lindsay Main '97
MW	MWModern World, 22	22	15m	5	0
P1 22 15m 5 A powerful route up the left side of the black wall, vaguely following a white streak. Three bolts with chain links. Technical moves to reach the second bolt, then left a little and haul up (beware loose holds) to a ledge with natural pro; then up to the third bolt and the anchor chain on good holds.
GS	GSGripping Scales, 20	20	14m	5	2.01
P1 20 14m 5 A magnificent route up the right side of the black wall and through the overhangs above. Tricky moves with natural pro to the first of three bolts, then past the second bolt on the right and into the overhang on huge jugs past the third bolt to ledges. Anchor at a boulder at the top.
	Defence Lawyer, 17	17	14m	1	0
P1 17 14m 1 Trad Up the obvious corner right of Gripping Scales, avoiding the lawyer by traversing right on to the ledge halfway up. Beware loose blocks. Place a wire, then clip the bolt and climb the steep wall as for the finish of Black Magic (crux) past another bolt on big holds.
	Black Magic, 20	20		4	0
The obvious black arête at the right edge of the main wall. Up on crumbly foot-holds to the first bolt, with a reach to good holds at the second bolt just above. Pull through and place a small cam below easy moves before the headwall steepens above. Move slightly right of the third bolt and climb straight past the fourth bolt through the lip on great holds. P1 20 4 Trad
	Something Fishy, 20	20	14m	3	0
P1 20 14m 3 Trad An overhanging weakness about three metres right. Natural pro to reach the first of two bolts to the ledge. Then finish straight up to the right of Black Magic with a wire and a third bolt for pro.
	Unnamed, 18	18	20m	2	0
Start at a bush and climb the left-leaning, overhanging crack (crux) to a ledge. Up to another ledge and finish up Something Fishy with two bolts and a wire. P1 18 20m 2 Trad
	Unnamed, 15	15	20m		0
Steep V-chimney/niche. Up on some big holds and move left past the grass; then right to skirt the prow and climb the headwall. P1 15 20m Trad
TS	TSThe Stylemaster, 21	21	8m	2	1.02
P1 21 8m 2 Trad Short wall with a bulge a few metres up and two bolts (the lowest has a hanger and the other has links). The trick is getting stable above the bulge. Anchor chain. Joe Arts '97
SH	SHSheep On The Hoof, 15	15	8m		0
P1 15 8m Trad Pleasant climbing up a vague crack with reasonable pro from wires. Pleasant climbing up a vague crack with minimal pro from wires.
	Tiny Tim Blows A Fuse, 15	15			0
P1 15 Trad Vague line a metre right. Rather lichenous and completely lacking in pro. Joe Arts '92
OB	OBOily Bullah, 15	15	8m		0
P1 15 8m Trad A weakness a metre right with natural pro. Adrienne McLeod '92
MW	MWMysterious Ways, 18	18		4	0
P1 18 4 A steep wall route through a small roof (crux).
	Calling the Flock, 25, 21	21	8m	2	1.02
P1 21 8m 2 Trad Just before the turn in the cliff. Good cranking through two small roofs with a bolt each, plus another to protect the finish. Joe Arts '92
	The Rubbish Run, 19	19	15m	4	0
P1 19 15m 4 Very steep arete just right with 4 bolts with links. Start in the corner and go leftwards onto the arete. Good for a pump. Joe Arts '97
MF	MFNo Scrap Metal, 19	19			0
Start at TRR and clip the new bolt. Climb the corner crack with shrubs. When the corner ends head up and R (unprotected) to a shrubby ledge. Move left to a rib or flake at left end of slab, up this. P1 19 Trad
	Mind The Fuchsia, 17	17		2	0
P1 17 Trad Along the shelf and around the bend is this obvious corner which no longer contains a fuchsia bush. Good bridging with some tricky and committing moves.
	Cash Cow Machine, 20	20	12m	2	0
P1 20 12m 2 Trad Prominent arete with red lichen, climbed on the right. Grunty bouldering start to reach the first bolt - somewhat serious with the three metre drop below the starting ledge. Then on up the wall to the right of the arete past a second bolt.
	Salvaged Ego, 16	16	12m	2	0
P1 16 12m 2 Trad Indirect start to Cash Cow Machine from the right. Up to a wire placement, then move across to the second bolt and up. Quite steep. Murray Ball '83
	Repressed Anxieties, 21	21	12m	2	0
P1 21 12m 2 Trad A strong line right through the overhangs in the centre of the red wall. There are paired bolts, then natural pro and another bolt.
	Space Junk, 24	24		4	0
A direct line through the overhang and up the steep wall above. Four bolts. P1 24 4
	Existential Climber, 20	20	12m	1	0
P1 20 12m 1 Trad Start on the right of the wall up a broken corner, and then up past a bolt on the steep wall above.
	Champagne Breakfast, 19	19			0
P1 19 Trad A solo route on the arete to the right of Existential Climber, possibly protectable.
	Frogs' Legs, 17	17	4m		0
P1 17 4m Trad Obscure short solo route right of Champagne Breakfast.
	Fish Out Of Water, 21	21	20m		0
P1 21 20m Trad On the red pillar below the main cliff, accessed by crashing down through the broom scrub. The route is believed to be up a thin crack on the arete, minimally protected with small wires behind a possibly secure block. The grade is a guess.