Crag X

(30 routes)

Location
On the eastern side of Mt Pleasant just south of the summit ridge, and just west of the old World War II concrete gun emplacements. The crag faces west, and runs south from the zig-zags in the track.

Climate
There's good shelter from the north-east, and it's nice and sunny on a winter afternoon. It can be hot in summer. It's exposed to the south, but there's a degree of shelter in a north-wester, though others would be preferred.

Climbing
Climb grades range from 14 to 24, concentrated in grades 19-21, and many are excellent climbs. Most routes are well protected, many with bolts, but three of the oldest routes, on the right end of the cliff, are awaiting re-bolting and the bolts may not be safe.
The rock is the coarse-grained Mt Pleasant trachyte, which gives excellent friction. As with all the Mt Pleasant cliffs, beware of loose flakes, especially as many climbs have had only a few ascents.

History
The initial climbing by Brian Fish and Joe Arts in 1981 of five routes on the south-facing right hand end was an odd quirk in the development of Christchurch climbing. At Lyttelton Rock, Scratching Julius, which was the catalyst for development of that crag, had not yet been done. To reach Crag X more accessible crags were bypassed, and the largest part of the crag was ignored. Little wonder that the crag was mostly left alone for a decade, until Joe Arts started a second phase of development in 1991-92, of which the notable route was the crag's showpiece, Gripping Scales.
Finally, in October 1997 Lindsay Main and Joe Arts set some kind of a record by doing eight new routes during one hot spring day to clean up most of the obvious remaining lines.
 

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
300m
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
15 min
Access: 

Approaches
The fastest approach is to park on the Summit Road at the pine trees and walk south across Greenwood Park, southward along the vehicle track to the gun emplacements. Cross the fence at an old sign and pick up the track that zig-zags downward the gully toward Lyttlelton.

You can also park at the Major Hornbrook Track, as for Lyttelton Rock, and walk along the Bluffs Track. However this is quite long.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.591213000000, 172.733865000000
NZMS260: 
M36 885349
Topo50: 
BX24 785 733
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Pig In A Poke 16
0
wire representing trad
Starts on the left of the crag and seeks the difficulties - very contrived. Move up and right, then up over a bulge into a crack. Carry on up the arete with good pro, exiting just to the left. Lindsay Main '97
Fun In The Sun 14
1.02
wire representing trad
A lovely route on good rock at the left end of the crag. Start up a steep short wall just left of the low-level 45 degree roof, moving right three metres up. Continue up and right to exit in the steep crack. Excellent natural pro. Lindsay Main '97
X Foliate 17 20m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the slab just right of hairline crack. Move left and up through bushes to sharp low angled arete. Climb up the left side of this to an overhang down and left of skyline V notch. Move up and left to good position on prominent prow, and up. Good climbing once past the trees. Two ropes and slings handy. The finish is good.
Alan Hill, 1999.
Out Of Control 14
1.02
wire representing trad
Start up an easy corner with a harder move just below a ledge with a small tree. Move left and up a slab to exit. Originally soloed but should be protectable. Lindsay Main '97
When You're Hot You're Hot 20
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Done in 28 degree heat. Start below the corner of Be My Guest and boulder up a few moves (pro), then swing left a metre or so to a rat-hole which takes a 3« Friend. (Take care not to fall off into the matagouri). Then up the wall into the groove past two bolts. Rightward to the arete and finish directly up over blocks. You should top out at a very large anchor boulder. Lindsay Main '97
Be My Guest 18
0
wire representing trad
Ascends the obvious right-facing corner, but start a couple of metres right and follow good holds up to the corner and pro. Move right to clip the second bolt of Modern World, then up and flail around for some jugs on the arete. Finish right to the anchor chain. Lindsay Main '97
MW Modern World 22 15m
0
5bolts
A powerful route up the left side of the black wall, vaguely following a white streak. Three bolts with chain links. Technical moves to reach the second bolt, then left a little and haul up (beware loose holds) to a ledge with natural pro; then up to the third bolt and the anchor chain on good holds.
Joe Arts '97
GS Gripping Scales 20 14m
2.01
5bolts
A magnificent route up the right side of the black wall and through the overhangs above. Tricky moves with natural pro to the first of three bolts, then past the second bolt on the right and into the overhang on huge jugs past the third bolt to ledges. Anchor at a boulder at the top.
Joe Arts '91
Defence Lawyer 17 14m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Up the obvious corner right of Gripping Scales, avoiding the lawyer by traversing right on to the ledge halfway up. Beware loose blocks. Place a wire, then clip the bolt and climb the steep wall as for the finish of Black Magic (crux) past another bolt on big holds.
Marcus Thomas, 1995.
Black Magic 20
0
4bolts wire representing trad
The obvious black arête at the right edge of the main wall. Up on crumbly foot-holds to the first bolt, with a reach to good holds at the second bolt just above. Pull through and place a small cam below easy moves before the headwall steepens above. Move slightly right of the third bolt and climb straight past the fourth bolt through the lip on great holds.
Lindsay Main, 1999.
Something Fishy 20 14m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
An overhanging weakness about three metres right. Natural pro to reach the first of two bolts to the ledge. Then finish straight up to the right of Black Magic with a wire and a third bolt for pro.
Joe Arts, 1992.
Unnamed 18 20m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Start at a bush and climb the left-leaning, overhanging crack (crux) to a ledge. Up to another ledge and finish up Something Fishy with two bolts and a wire.
Joe Arts, 2018.
Unnamed 15 20m
0
wire representing trad
Steep V-chimney/niche. Up on some big holds and move left past the grass; then right to skirt the prow and climb the headwall.
Joe Arts, 2018.
TS The Stylemaster 21 8m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Short wall with a bulge a few metres up and two bolts (the lowest has a hanger and the other has links). The trick is getting stable above the bulge. Anchor chain. Joe Arts '97
SH Sheep On The Hoof 15 8m
0
wire representing trad
Pleasant climbing up a vague crack with reasonable pro from wires. Pleasant climbing up a vague crack with minimal pro from wires.
Joe Arts, 1992.
Tiny Tim Blows A Fuse 15
0
wire representing trad
Vague line a metre right. Rather lichenous and completely lacking in pro. Joe Arts '92
OB Oily Bullah 15 8m
0
wire representing trad
A weakness a metre right with natural pro. Adrienne McLeod '92
MW Mysterious Ways 18
0
4bolts
A steep wall route through a small roof (crux).
Joe Arts, 1997.
Calling the Flock, 25 21 8m
1.02
2bolts wire representing trad
Just before the turn in the cliff. Good cranking through two small roofs with a bolt each, plus another to protect the finish. Joe Arts '92
The Rubbish Run 19 15m
0
4bolts
Very steep arete just right with 4 bolts with links. Start in the corner and go leftwards onto the arete. Good for a pump. Joe Arts '97
MF No Scrap Metal 19
0
wire representing trad
Start at TRR and clip the new bolt. Climb the corner crack with shrubs. When the corner ends head up and R (unprotected) to a shrubby ledge. Move left to a rib or flake at left end of slab, up this.
Alan Hill, 2000.
Mind The Fuchsia 17
0
wire representing trad
Along the shelf and around the bend is this obvious corner which no longer contains a fuchsia bush. Good bridging with some tricky and committing moves.
Joe Arts '97
Cash Cow Machine 20 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Prominent arete with red lichen, climbed on the right. Grunty bouldering start to reach the first bolt - somewhat serious with the three metre drop below the starting ledge. Then on up the wall to the right of the arete past a second bolt.
Joe Arts, 1980.
Salvaged Ego 16 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
Indirect start to Cash Cow Machine from the right. Up to a wire placement, then move across to the second bolt and up. Quite steep. Murray Ball '83
Repressed Anxieties 21 12m
0
2bolts wire representing trad
A strong line right through the overhangs in the centre of the red wall. There are paired bolts, then natural pro and another bolt.
Brian Fish, 1980.
Space Junk 24
0
4bolts
A direct line through the overhang and up the steep wall above. Four bolts.
Marcus Thomas, 1999.
Existential Climber 20 12m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Start on the right of the wall up a broken corner, and then up past a bolt on the steep wall above.
Brian Fish, 1980.
Champagne Breakfast 19
0
wire representing trad
A solo route on the arete to the right of Existential Climber, possibly protectable.
Brian Fish, 1980.
Frogs' Legs 17 4m
0
wire representing trad
Obscure short solo route right of Champagne Breakfast.
Joe Arts, 1980.
Fish Out Of Water 21 20m
0
wire representing trad
On the red pillar below the main cliff, accessed by crashing down through the broom scrub. The route is believed to be up a thin crack on the arete, minimally protected with small wires behind a possibly secure block. The grade is a guess.
Brian Fish, 1980.
Attribution: 
Lindsay Main

This place appears in

UUID: 
a2861a01-e905-4389-9dd6-36e8bda0b3ef

Comments

Grades & Bolt counts aren't being copied from the Pitch info for some reason?

There ya go. I think it was because the pitch heights were set to 0

Thanks. I've occasionally seen the same thing elsewhere on ClimbNZ; now I know what to look out for :-)