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Saturday Morning Special

Type
Face
Part of
Telecom Tower

Access from Queens Drive

Lat/lon
POINT (168.8020134 -45.06242725)
Topo50
CC11 695 015
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
20 20Number One Gully, M3 M3 0m
0

Two pitches. Climb obvious gully on LHS of buttress.

  • P1
  • Mixed M3
20 A 20 AM4, M4 M4 50m
1.02

Short multi pitch route on the nice buttress just right of Number One Gully.
There are two routes on this attractive pyramid this is the left hand of the
two climbs. both are a similar grade.

  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 50m
  • Trad
 The Aussie Potato Farmer, M5 M5 40m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M5
  • 40m

'overhanging crack [straight] off the deck. Its in an alcove not far left of saturday morning special. Good hooks. Then into ice and snow after pulling through. One more tricky step. Followed by low angled corner no pro. Snow on slab on right and good footholds on left side.'
 20.5: No Holds Beard, M5 M5 0m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M5

Left of SMS. Up a rock step left of triangle prow.

  • P2
  • Trad

Head on up gully for 5m then move left on ledge below fist rock step, continue up angling left (limited gear), finishing under big roof and break in arete.
21 21Saturday Morning Special, M3 M3 150m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M3
  • 150m

Small steeps and snow gullies a great introductory route to climbing on the West Face of the Telecom Tower.
22 22Un-Named, M5 M5 0m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M5

Just Right of SMS. Bouldery move over chock stone.
24 24Ben Dover, M4 M4 15m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 15m

1 short pitch leading up to the ledge that Recessionary Downgrade and Blow Up start from.
 Chens Route, M4 M4 10m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 10m
  • Trad

A short pitch right of Ben Dover. Somewhere between M4-5. The crack is step but short and the difficulties will be over quickly.

23 23Recessionary Downgrade, M5 M5 165m
3

A good test piece M5. Originally graded M7 by the first party to try this
line who attempted to traverse in from Blow Up. Climbed during the height of
the GFC where the prices of many things were falling. Just like the GFC the
grade of this route took a tumble.

  • P1
  • Mixed M5
  • 35m

Walk up sloping ledge towards the obvious steep crack of Blow Up. Start in the left-hand corner.

  • P2
  • Mixed M5
  • 35m

Pitch two heads towards an obvious off-width crack. Place your biggest cam high in this crack then down climb 2m and out 2m onto the black slab. Climb this direct for 5m until you reach another crack. Start breathing again and continue upwards. Quite sustained for the grade.

  • P3
  • Mixed M4
  • 50m

More climbing.

  • P4
  • Mixed M4
  • 25m

More climbing.

  • P5
  • Mixed M4
  • 20m

Continue to top and walk off.
26 26Blow Up, 22,M8 22,M8 35m
0
  • P1
  • 22
  • Mixed M8
  • 35m
  • Trad

Up very steep hand crack on great holds with excellent gear. Double bolt belay with 30m rap to the ground. An excellent route which is much steeper than it looks.
 Tri Nations, M5 M5 150m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M5
  • 150m

just to the right of Recessionary Downgrade; ascends ‘a series of corners’ on the right hand side of a ‘prominent [arête] before reaching the crest and following it for the final pitch;’ Three pitches.
 He rangi mokopuna, M5 M5 0m
0

Same start as Tri-nations. P1: Groove/corner on left of snowy gully of
scapegoat, into wide roofcrack. (#4 Camalot recommended). A hard pull into
chimney on rattly chockstones.
P2: Continue up groove/corner above, to right of arete. P3: traverse right
into distinctive V corner, climb to top. A cracker of a pitch

  • P1
  • Mixed M5

Corner line on wall left of scapegoat gully.
28 28Scape Goat, M4 M4 0m
0

Start up easy gully, where it narrows, step left onto slab with small right
facing corner. Finish up steep blocky ground, or out right (easier).

  • P1
  • Mixed M4

Gully system after prow of recessionary downgrade, just before ridge.

29 29Growling Dog, M5 M5 0m
0
  • P1
  • Mixed M5

Start up Gully of Scapegoat and move right under roof crack.

Images

Comments
the ghost who walks

It's marked in better now as route #21 but it's a 2 pitch route with 60m ropes, therefore 110m

Sat, 08/09/2012 - 18:48 Permalink
the ghost who walks

Well, Saturday Morning Special has the wrong route number assigned to it otherwise it is marked in entirely wrong. I climbed the route a week ago and it was just 110m long.

Fri, 31/08/2012 - 00:05 Permalink
steven.fortune

Tried to fix this up. There are a few errors around on the topo, feel free to edit and clean them up.

Sun, 02/09/2012 - 16:17 Permalink
Attribution
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL
ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
UUID
 
3b692f06-85e7-4142-94ab-7c7ce4e198c3