Saturday Morning Special

(14 routes)

Access from Queens Drive

Type: 
Crag
Lat/Lon: 
-45.062427250000, 168.802013400000
NZMS260: 
F41 795 633
Topo50: 
CC11 695 015
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
20 Number One Gully M3
0
Two pitches. Climb obvious gully on LHS of buttress.
Tony Burnell, Sally Ford, 2009
20 A M4 M4 50m
1.02
wire representing trad 3 1
Short multi pitch route on the nice buttress just right of Number One Gully. There are two routes on this attractive pyramid this is the left hand of the two climbs. both are a similar grade.
Daniel Joll, Jaz Morris, Jono Clarke, Di Drayton
The Aussie Potato Farmer M5 40m
0
'overhanging crack [straight] off the deck. Its in an alcove not far left of saturday morning special. Good hooks. Then into ice and snow after pulling through. One more tricky step. Followed by low angled corner no pro. Snow on slab on right and good footholds on left side.'
Danny Murphy, Owen Davis, August 2013
20.5: No Holds Beard M5,
0
wire representing trad
Left of SMS. Up a rock step left of triangle prow.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M50mNo
 Left of SMS. Up a rock step left of triangle prow.
20mYes
 Head on up gully for 5m then move left on ledge below fist rock step, continue up angling left (limited gear), finishing under big roof and break in arete.
John Barnes, Di Drayton, 2012
21 Saturday Morning Special M3 150m
0
Small steeps and snow gullies a great introductory route to climbing on the West Face of the Telecom Tower.
Tony Burnell, Sally Ford, Aaron Ford 2009.
22 Un-Named M5
0
Just Right of SMS. Bouldery move over chock stone.
Sally Ford, Tony Burnell, Micheal K 2012.
24 Ben Dover M4 15m
0
1 short pitch leading up to the ledge that Recessionary Downgrade and Blow Up start from.
Ben Dare, Danny Murphy 2010.
Chens Route M4 10m
0
wire representing trad
A short pitch right of Ben Dover. Somewhere between M4-5. The crack is step but short and the difficulties will be over quickly.
David Chen
23 Recessionary Downgrade M5, M5, M4, M4, M4 165m
3
2
A good test piece M5. Originally graded M7 by the first party to try this line who attempted to traverse in from Blow Up. Climbed during the height of the GFC where the prices of many things were falling. Just like the GFC the grade of this route took a tumble.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M535mNo
 Walk up sloping ledge towards the obvious steep crack of Blow Up. Start in the left-hand corner.
2M535mNo
 Pitch two heads towards an obvious off-width crack. Place your biggest cam high in this crack then down climb 2m and out 2m onto the black slab. Climb this direct for 5m until you reach another crack. Start breathing again and continue upwards. Quite sustained for the grade.
3M450mNo
 More climbing.
4M425mNo
 More climbing.
5M420mNo
 Continue to top and walk off.
Daniel Joll, Danny Murphy, 2011
26 Blow Up 22 M8 35m
0
wire representing trad 1
Up very steep hand crack on great holds with excellent gear. Double bolt belay with 30m rap to the ground. An excellent route which is much steeper than it looks.
FFA: Daniel Joll, Cris Vanyo, 2011.
Tri Nations M5 150m
0
just to the right of Recessionary Downgrade; ascends ‘a series of corners’ on the right hand side of a ‘prominent [arête] before reaching the crest and following it for the final pitch;’ Three pitches.
Ben Dare, Danny Murphy, Federico Callegari, August 2013
He rangi mokopuna M5
0
Same start as Tri-nations. P1: Groove/corner on left of snowy gully of scapegoat, into wide roofcrack. (#4 Camalot recommended). A hard pull into chimney on rattly chockstones. P2: Continue up groove/corner above, to right of arete. P3: traverse right into distinctive V corner, climb to top. A cracker of a pitch
S Fortune, M Wilkinson
28 Scape Goat M4
0
Start up easy gully, where it narrows, step left onto slab with small right facing corner. Finish up steep blocky ground, or out right (easier).
Dave Bolger, Greg Larkin 2009
29 Growling Dog M5
0
Start up Gully of Scapegoat and move right under roof crack.
Dave Bolger, Greg Larkin, 2009.
Attribution: 
Material from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.

Comments

It's marked in better now as route #21 but it's a 2 pitch route with 60m ropes, therefore 110m

Well, Saturday Morning Special has the wrong route number assigned to it otherwise it is marked in entirely wrong. I climbed the route a week ago and it was just 110m long.

Tried to fix this up. There are a few errors around on the topo, feel free to edit and clean them up.