Access from Queens Drive
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 20 | 20Number One Gully, M3 | M3 | ||||
|
Two pitches. Climb obvious gully on LHS of buttress.
|
||||||
| 20 A | 20 AM4, M4 | M4 | 50m |  |
||
|
Short multi pitch route on the nice buttress just right of Number One Gully.
|
||||||
| The Aussie Potato Farmer, M5 | M5 | 40m | ||||
'overhanging crack [straight] off the deck. Its in an alcove not far left of saturday morning special. Good hooks. Then into ice and snow after pulling through. One more tricky step. Followed by low angled corner no pro. Snow on slab on right and good footholds on left side.' |
||||||
| 20.5: No Holds Beard, M5 | M5 | |
||||
Left of SMS. Up a rock step left of triangle prow.
Head on up gully for 5m then move left on ledge below fist rock step, continue up angling left (limited gear), finishing under big roof and break in arete. |
||||||
| 21 | 21Saturday Morning Special, M3 | M3 | 150m | |||
Small steeps and snow gullies a great introductory route to climbing on the West Face of the Telecom Tower. |
||||||
| 22 | 22Un-Named, M5 | M5 | ||||
Just Right of SMS. Bouldery move over chock stone. |
||||||
| 24 | 24Ben Dover, M4 | M4 | 15m | |||
1 short pitch leading up to the ledge that Recessionary Downgrade and Blow Up start from. |
||||||
| Chens Route, M4 | M4 | 10m | |
|||
A short pitch right of Ben Dover. Somewhere between M4-5. The crack is step but short and the difficulties will be over quickly. |
||||||
| 23 | 23Recessionary Downgrade, M5 | M5 | 165m | |||
|
A good test piece M5. Originally graded M7 by the first party to try this
Walk up sloping ledge towards the obvious steep crack of Blow Up. Start in the left-hand corner.
Pitch two heads towards an obvious off-width crack. Place your biggest cam high in this crack then down climb 2m and out 2m onto the black slab. Climb this direct for 5m until you reach another crack. Start breathing again and continue upwards. Quite sustained for the grade.
More climbing.
More climbing.
Continue to top and walk off. |
||||||
| 26 | 26Blow Up, 22,M8 | 22,M8 | 35m | |
||
Up very steep hand crack on great holds with excellent gear. Double bolt belay with 30m rap to the ground. An excellent route which is much steeper than it looks. |
||||||
| Tri Nations, M5 | M5 | 150m | ||||
just to the right of Recessionary Downgrade; ascends ‘a series of corners’ on the right hand side of a ‘prominent [arête] before reaching the crest and following it for the final pitch;’ Three pitches. |
||||||
| He rangi mokopuna, M5 | M5 | |||||
|
Same start as Tri-nations. P1: Groove/corner on left of snowy gully of
Corner line on wall left of scapegoat gully. |
||||||
| 28 | 28Scape Goat, M4 | M4 | ||||
|
Start up easy gully, where it narrows, step left onto slab with small right
Gully system after prow of recessionary downgrade, just before ridge. |
||||||
| 29 | 29Growling Dog, M5 | M5 | ||||
Start up Gully of Scapegoat and move right under roof crack. |
||||||
Images
ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012.
It's marked in better now as route #21 but it's a 2 pitch route with 60m ropes, therefore 110m
Well, Saturday Morning Special has the wrong route number assigned to it otherwise it is marked in entirely wrong. I climbed the route a week ago and it was just 110m long.
In reply to Well, Saturday Morning by the ghost who walks
Tried to fix this up. There are a few errors around on the topo, feel free to edit and clean them up.