P1, Climb the obvious iced up gut. It can be difficult to find a belay at the end of the first 60m pitch, especially in big snow years. A snow stake may prove useful; a pink Tricam too. Otherwise it may be desirable for the second to simul-climb the first, easy snow slopes so the second can reach a large block at the top of the first icefall (large cams). P2-3, The initial, narrow, often iced up choke of the climb (P1-2) is where the main challenges lie, but the upper section can be climbed several different ways to make it easier or more challenging. From the first broad snowfield above the choke, the original route moves left up a short-mixed step to gain another broad snowfield. The original rout continues up this snowfield, but above this step, on the left wall there are two mixed lines that continue to the top at around M4. Alternatively: From the top of the initial ice gully one can deviate to the right to a great belay below a large chockstone roof feature. This roof can be passed via a committing but well protected move at about M4 to gain the upper snow field. It can be easier in big snow years. P4, The upper headwall is split into three lines; the furthest right is the original easy ramble out, the central line (Coffee’d Up) rarely forms and when it does, generally climbs at about M4, which can be unprotectable near the top. The furthest left line climbs at about M3, is usually well protected but often requires an exciting, sugar snow mantel to finish.
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MK is the classic moderate route of the area. Generally climbed in 4 pitches.Climb the obvious gully before you reach the Telecom
Andy Mills, Rupert Gardiner