Gout Route

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
On the wide buttress between Scapegoat and MK. Start is just as you descend to the Los Indignados area, up slabby area above and left of bottom of MK gully. Good rock belay in alcove to the right of climb. Top pitch is avoidable by going right up obvious gully (probably M2) or left on easy snow to meet ridge, making it a good first mixed lead with similar climbing to MK or Saturday Morning Special. Pitch 1 - Slabby start leads to broken gully and then up long snow slope, heading right at top to good rock belay in alcove. M2/M3, 60m Pitch 2 - Step left from belay into fun corner with excellent gear and a couple of steeper steps. At top of gully, break left on slabby ground and onto wide easy angled snow above. First ascensionist belayed off a boulder in middle of snow field using a piton. May be easier to shorten this pitch and belay at bottom of snowfield. M3, 55m Pitch 3 - From belay, cross easy snowfield (on first ascent, party moved together here but could be pitched) and aim for obvious steep crack on ridge. Good rock belay on right of slab. Step left from belay up slab and then through off-width which become a crack at the top. Good gear and hooks all the way but thin feet make it quite pumpy. A piton got left next to crux on first ascent which you may be glad to clip, otherwise a big cam would come in handy. Fun pitch. Good spike belay on ridge. M4+, 20m (+40m of easy snow at start)
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M40mNo
Grade: 
M4
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Matt Wilkinson,
Alex Howard,
August 21st, 2016
Route Image: 
UUID: 
5602ab4e-8779-4c63-b279-3a4902b18095