On the wide buttress between Scapegoat and MK. Start is just as you
descend to the Los Indignados area, up slabby area above and left of bottom
of MK gully. Good rock belay in alcove to the right of climb. Top
pitch is avoidable by going right up obvious gully (probably M2) or left on
easy snow to meet ridge, making it a good first mixed lead with similar
climbing to MK or Saturday Morning Special.
Pitch 1 - Slabby start leads to broken gully and then up long snow slope,
heading right at top to good rock belay in alcove. M2/M3, 60m
Pitch 2 - Step left from belay into fun corner with excellent gear and a
couple of steeper steps. At top of gully, break left on slabby ground and
onto wide easy angled snow above. First ascensionist belayed off a boulder in
middle of snow field using a piton. May be easier to shorten this pitch and
belay at bottom of snowfield. M3, 55m
Pitch 3 - From belay, cross easy snowfield (on first ascent, party moved
together here but could be pitched) and aim for obvious steep crack on ridge.
Good rock belay on right of slab. Step left from belay up slab and then
through off-width which become a crack at the top. Good gear and hooks all
the way but thin feet make it quite pumpy. A piton got left next to crux on
first ascent which you may be glad to clip, otherwise a big cam would come in
handy. Fun pitch. Good spike belay on ridge. M4+, 20m (+40m of easy snow at
start)
- P1
- Mixed M4
