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Old Guard

First ascent
Danny Murphy, Steve Skelton, Aug 2015
Located on
Topo ref

P1: Climb the moderate gully, passing what is likely to be to only ice on the
P2: Continue up the gully to a broad snow slope that extends to the left
towards Naturalization. There is some new route potential to the left, above
this snow slope.
P3: Blast through the thin cracks that stay just left of the arete. Some
technical foot work required. A short pitch.
P4: Up for a few meters until the cracks fuse and force you out left. Slab
across a bottomless ledge to the next crack system and continue as far as
your rope will carry you.
P5: A long pitch with a double crux. Climb right tending, overhang crack off
the belay to slabs. Continue up and right towards and overhanging corner with
a large chockstone.
P6-8: Finish as for Sumo

  • P1
  • Mixed M5

Starting up the first obvious snow gully right of the buttress that forms the foot of the west face, this route weaves its way through some daunting territory with four solid, engaging and fun mixed pitches. It's quite feasible to solo the first pitch or two before the real climbing starts.