West Face

6 Pitches. Start on the far LHS of the face then head up and right via easy ramps and several short mixed steps before finishing between the two summits of Double Cone.

M4+. 6 pitches. Start up a left facing corner then tend right via mixed ground. Move up and over a rock step before heading right for the same finish as TRotK

WI4+. Mostly climbed on snow and ice up low angle rock slabs. When reaching the final snowfield beneath the summit headwall, move rightwards over the rock spine towards the top of the Petit Couloir.

Above The Final Frontier. Great crack and corner systems lead to the first summit of Double Cone.

8 pitches. Begin up a right leaning gully then move left into a corner system. Follow this towards the ridge on the right until you meet the top of pitch four on Consolation Prize. From here move left across easy snow and mixed slopes before doglegging back right to finish on the left hand side of the Double Cone Summit. See the Queenstown Climbing Club - Queenstown Rock, Ice & Mixed guidebook for a pitch by pitch description of the route. And look out for some abandoned booty on the second pitch from a previous abandoned second ascent attempt. The first three pitches were initially climbed in summer by Julian White and went at grade 17.

3 Pitches. The crack system right of Sumo with bolted abseil stations.

Start at a crack/corner system directly between Sumo and Ikon. You will see two cracks that lead up to the same chimney. Consolation prize started up the right hand crack then moved left into the chimney to exit onto the approach ramp of Ikon. Six full rope lengths of sustained climbing at grade M6, until the angle relents for the last 40m which go at M4. Carry a full rack of gear from small pitons through to #4 Camalot. The line is very straight and direct with only a slight deviating zig zag on the second to last pitch, which starts up right then cuts left around a rock pinnacle. The summer rock climb Breaking in Brett goes direct through this pinnacle. You could do this in winter but the climbing is run out and a fall from the top of the pinnacle would likely result in a ground fall to the ledge below.

8 pitches. Start as per Sumo then head up two pitches on a right leaning ramp. From here start up an nice corner system for four pitches before tending right and exiting up easier ground to the right hand side of the main Double Cone Summit.

Direct start to Ikon linking into the top of pitch two. Around 70m of steep cracks which look to be solid M6 or M7 climbing. Start as for BIB. After pitch one head up the wide wet crack system on loose rock. This should take you through the roof section onto better rock and the base of the hard climbing on Ikon. Looks like the corner will freeze in winter and will probably need a #5 Camalot to protect. Two #4s were used for the belay at the base of the wide corner. A bail wire and snap lock await the successful team part way up this pitch.

Direct start linking to pitch 5 of Ikon.

Climbs the right hand side of the obvious buttress that guards the base of the West face. Four pitches of rock and mixed climbing leads to the upper, fun pitches of Sumo. On the first ascent rock shoes were used on the first pitches and once the lip of the buttress was turned, alpine boots came back on.

Starting up the first obvious snow gully right of the buttress that forms the foot of the west face, this route weaves its way through some daunting territory with four solid, engaging and fun mixed pitches. It's quite feasible to solo the first pitch or two before the real climbing starts.

5 pitches. Starts up a large snow gully for approximately 100m to where real climbing begins. Follow slabs initially then follow more featured mixed ground before traversing left to top out south of the summit of Double Cone.