West Face

(16 routes)

Great ice and mixed routes on the west face.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

Access via Queens Drive in ok snow conditions 1 hr 30 mins, can take longer with deep snow. Alternate access around the SF of Single Cone approx 1.5-2 hours. It is also possible to rap down from the Heli pad at the start of the Grand Traverse

Lat/Lon: 
-45.071096010000, 168.805446620000
NZMS260: 
F41 798 624
Topo50: 
CC11 698 006
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
79 The Return of the King M3 300m
0
6 Pitches. Start on the far LHS of the face then head up and right via easy ramps and several short mixed steps before finishing between the two summits of Double Cone.
Dave Bolger, Rupert Gardiner, 2005.
80 Alpine Deluxe M4 200m
0
M4+. 6 pitches. Start up a left facing corner then tend right via mixed ground. Move up and over a rock step before heading right for the same finish as TRotK
Jon Taylor, Andy Eccleshall. 2000.
81 The Final Frontier 300m
0
WI4+. Mostly climbed on snow and ice up low angle rock slabs. Finish up left ending slopes to exit at the top of Petit Couloir.
Steve Carr, Andy Macfarlane, 2000.
82 Open project
0
Summer or winter Climb the headwall pitches above The Final Frontier. Great crack and corner systems lead to the first summit of Double Cone.
83 Sumo Wrestling M6
0
8 pitches. Begin up a right leaning gully then move left into a corner system. Follow this towards the ridge on the right until you meet the top of pitch four on Consolation Prize. From here move left across easy snow and mixed slopes before doglegging back right to finish on the left hand side of the Double Cone Summit. See the Queenstown Climbing Club - Queenstown Rock, Ice & Mixed guidebook for a pitch by pitch description of the route. And look out for some abandoned booty on the second pitch from a previous abandoned second ascent attempt. The first three pitches were initially climbed in summer by Julian White and went at grade 17.
Aaron Ford, Rupert Gardiner, 2008.
84 A Perfect Summers Evening 18
0
3 Pitches. The crack system right of Sumo with bolted abseil stations.
Al Uren, Steve Moffit.
85 Consolation Prize M6
0
wire representing trad 1
Start at a crack/corner system directly between Sumo and Ikon. You will see two cracks that lead up to the same chimney. Consolation prize started up the right hand crack then moved left into the chimney to exit onto the approach ramp of Ikon. Six full rope lengths of sustained climbing at grade M6, until the angle relents for the last 40m which go at M4. Carry a full rack of gear from small pitons through to #4 Camalot. The line is very straight and direct with only a slight deviating zig zag on the second to last pitch, which starts up right then cuts left around a rock pinnacle. The summer rock climb Breaking in Brett goes direct through this pinnacle. You could do this in winter but the climbing is run out and a fall from the top of the pinnacle would likely result in a ground fall to the ledge below.
Danny Murphy, Craig Jefferies, Daniel Joll, 2011.
86 Breaking in Brett 19 , , , ,
0
wire representing trad
8 pitches. Start directly under the large overhanging roof system right of Consolation Prize. Up nice hand and finger cracks to the base of a wide off width. From here the route moves left under a roof for an excellent slab pitch of grade 19. Small Camalots and wires under a couple of loose flakes protect the initial moves, then move onto well protected excellent rock and traverse around the overhanging roofs to exit approximately10m higher on the Ikon approach ledge than the first pitch of Consolation Prize. From here move up and right aiming for the nice finger crack near to the arête.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1190mYes
 

8 pitches. Start directly under the large overhanging
roof system right of Consolation Prize. Up nice hand
and finger cracks to the base of a wide off width. From
here the route moves left under a roof for an excellent
slab pitch of grade 19. Small Camalots and wires under
a couple of loose flakes protect the initial moves, then
move onto well protected excellent rock and traverse
around the overhanging roofs to exit approximately10m
higher on the Ikon approach ledge than the first pitch of
Consolation Prize. From here move up and right aiming
for the nice finger crack near to the arête.

20mYes
 

Pitch 4 is the
same as pitch 3 for Consolation Prize.

30mNo
 

Pitch 5 takes the
left hand slab. Climb this until gear, or nerves, run out
then move right into the easy corner, which is followed
to a belay stance on a ledge - where you should see the
great looking crack system of pitch 6.

40mYes
 

Climb this corner
system starting on the left hand side. Consolation Prize
took the right hand turf filled crack and exited up and
left. Breaking in Brett exits up and right to a ledge. From
here continue up easy loose rock to the base of the pinnacle
pitch. Climb to the half banged in piton (leave it in
place) and traverse left to place a #1 Camalot then run it
out to the top. Be careful not to fall off through this section.
You can avoid this pitch by traversing left around the
triangle; however it’s a good one if you feel comfortable
on run out grade 18.

50mNo
 

From here, climb straight up and
you should see the last pitch going up through a small
roof. Climb this then follow the arête direct to the summit
of Double Cone.

Brett Gilmore, Daniel Joll, 2011.
87 Ikon M6
0
8 pitches. Start as per Sumo then head up two pitches on a right leaning ramp. From here start up an nice corner system for four pitches before tending right and exiting up easier ground to the right hand side of the main Double Cone Summit.
Rupert Gardiner, Aaron Ford, 2007.
88 Open Project
0
wire representing trad
Direct start to Ikon linking into the top of pitch two. Around 70m of steep cracks which look to be solid M6 or M7 climbing. Start as for BIB. After pitch one head up the wide wet crack system on loose rock. This should take you through the roof section onto better rock and the base of the hard climbing on Ikon. Looks like the corner will freeze in winter and will probably need a #5 Camalot to protect. Two #4s were used for the belay at the base of the wide corner. A bail wire and snap lock await the successful team part way up this pitch.
89 Open Project
0
Direct start linking to pitch 5 of Ikon.
91 Naturalization M5
0
P1: Climbs an obvious, red, left facing corner. This pitch is almost a full 70m to a proper ledge belay. P2: Climbs the leftmost of the double crack system, exiting to the left. A stellar pitch! P3: Climbs slabs to below the overhanging chimney. P4: Thrash through the overhanging chimney And try not to tear the clothes off your flesh and flesh off you bones. Pull through the chimney onto ice and easier ground. P5: Continue almost straight up aiming for the left facing corner that is Sumo. P6-8: as for Sumo.
Steve Skelton, Graham Johnson, Aug 2014
91a Naturalization Alternate Start M4, M5 80m
0
wire representing trad
Follow the right tending corner to the base of the overhanging offwidth crack (currently unclimbed)
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1M440mYes
 

Follow the right tending corner to the base of the overhanging offwidth crack (currently unclimbed)

2M540mYes
 

Move up and right via loose blocks and some airy traverse moves to reach the belay at the top of Naturalizations second pitch. This pitch is not recogmended due to the loose rock. Naturalization regular start is the better way to go. Unless you want to climb the overhanging offwidth crack that hangs above pitch one.

Daniel Joll, Steve Fortune, 2015
Dairy for Life 18 ,20 ,17 ,16 ,17 ,18 , 315m
1.02
wire representing trad 3
Starts 20m left of Old Guard on top of scree ledges. Six pitches of climbing with 100m of scrambling direct to the summit of South Peak of Double Cone. Full rack of trad gear needed and small gear including RPs is useful. Cams up to BD4.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11835mYes
 

Start up twin cracks crossing a crux bulge at half height. Trend right over slab to DBA at detached boulder.

22025mYes
 

Awkward mantle onto boulder, then commit to crux jams through overhang then up easy crack to belay on ledge.

31750mYes
 

Fun climbing up corner crack then place gear high and traverse right on slab under roof. Climb slab to right of roof to belay on ledge just right of large detached block.

41645mYes
 

Climb slab on small holds to right facing layback crack. Make hand traverse 8m right and up easy crack to belay on ledge.

51740mYes
 

Mainly easy climbing up wide crack with short crux at start - crank through overhanging horn. Belay on ledge.

61860mYes
 

Mainly low grade climbing/scrambling with a grade 18 roof. Watch rope drag. Belay on ledge.

760mYes
 

Easy climbing/scrambling to ridge just right of the South Summit of Double Cone. Suits soloing/simul-climbing. Last 4m to summit is easy but steep climbing with some loose blocks and is worth roping up for as a fall here would spoil your day (possibly same exit as Ikon?).

Dean Dunning, Matt Wilkinson, Jan 2nd 2016
92 Old Guard M5
0
P1: Climb the moderate gully, passing what is likely to be to only ice on the climb. P2: Continue up the gully to a broad snow slope that extends to the left towards Naturalization. There is some new route potential to the left, above this snow slope. P3: Blast through the thin cracks that stay just left of the arete. Some technical foot work required. A short pitch. P4: Up for a few meters until the cracks fuse and force you out left. Slab across a bottomless ledge to the next crack system and continue as far as your rope will carry you. P5: A long pitch with a double crux. Climb right tending, overhang crack off the belay to slabs. Continue up and right towards and overhanging corner with a large chockstone. P6-8: Finish as for Sumo
Danny Murphy, Steve Skelton, Aug 2015
90 Chasing Shadows M5
0
5 pitches. Starts up a large snow gully for approximately 100m to where real climbing begins. Follow slabs initially then follow more featured mixed ground before traversing left to top out south of the summit of Double Cone.
Andy Mills, Rupert Gardiner, 2006.
Attribution: 
Material extracted from "REMARKABLES ICE & MIXED FESTIVAL ICE & MIXED GUIDE," 2012. Edited and posted with permission.
UUID: 
44c477a5-bd75-4d7c-a9c4-945470df93c4