|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
Climbs the right hand side of the obvious buttress that guards the base of the West face. Four pitches of rock and mixed climbing leads to the upper, fun pitches of Sumo. On the first ascent rock shoes were used on the first pitches and once the lip of the buttress was turned, alpine boots came back on.
P1: Climbs an obvious, red, left facing corner. This pitch is almost a full 70m to a proper ledge belay. P2: Climbs the leftmost of the double crack system, exiting to the left. A stellar pitch! P3: Climbs slabs to below the overhanging chimney. P4: Thrash through the overhanging chimney And try not to tear the clothes off your flesh and flesh off you bones. Pull through the chimney onto ice and easier ground. P5: Continue almost straight up aiming for the left facing corner that is Sumo. P6-8: as for Sumo.
Steve Skelton, Graham Johnson, Aug 2014