Natural pro requiredStarts 20m left of Old Guard on top of scree ledges. Six pitches of climbing with 100m of scrambling direct to the summit of South Peak of Double Cone.
Full rack of trad gear needed and small gear including RPs is useful. Cams up to BD4.
- P1
- 18
- 35m
- Trad
Start up twin cracks crossing a crux bulge at half height. Trend right over slab to DBA at detached boulder.
- P2
- 20
- 25m
- Trad
Awkward mantle onto boulder, then commit to crux jams through overhang then up easy crack to belay on ledge.
- P3
- 17
- 50m
- Trad
Fun climbing up corner crack then place gear high and traverse right on slab under roof. Climb slab to right of roof to belay on ledge just right of large detached block.
- P4
- 16
- 45m
- Trad
Climb slab on small holds to right facing layback crack. Make hand traverse 8m right and up easy crack to belay on ledge.
- P5
- 17
- 40m
- Trad
Mainly easy climbing up wide crack with short crux at start - crank through overhanging horn. Belay on ledge.
- P6
- 18
- 60m
- Trad
Mainly low grade climbing/scrambling with a grade 18 roof. Watch rope drag. Belay on ledge.
- P7
- 60m
- Trad
Easy climbing/scrambling to ridge just right of the South Summit of Double Cone. Suits soloing/simul-climbing. Last 4m to summit is easy but steep climbing with some loose blocks and is worth roping up for as a fall here would spoil your day (possibly same exit as Ikon?).
