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Breaking in Brett

Natural pro required
First ascent
Brett Gilmore, Daniel Joll, 2011.
Located on
Topo ref

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

8 pitches. Start directly under the large overhanging roof system right of Consolation Prize. Up nice hand and finger cracks to the base of a wide off width. From here the route moves left under a roof for an excellent slab pitch of grade 19. Small Camalots and wires under a couple of loose flakes protect the initial moves, then move onto well protected excellent rock and traverse around the overhanging roofs to exit approximately10m higher on the Ikon approach ledge than the first pitch of Consolation Prize. From here move up and right aiming for the nice finger crack near to the arête.

  • P2
  • Trad

Pitch 4 is the same as pitch 3 for Consolation Prize.

  • P3

Pitch 5 takes the left hand slab. Climb this until gear, or nerves, run out then move right into the easy corner, which is followed to a belay stance on a ledge - where you should see the great looking crack system of pitch 6.

  • P4
  • Trad

Climb this corner system starting on the left hand side. Consolation Prize took the right hand turf filled crack and exited up and left. Breaking in Brett exits up and right to a ledge. From here continue up easy loose rock to the base of the pinnacle pitch. Climb to the half banged in piton (leave it in place) and traverse left to place a #1 Camalot then run it out to the top. Be careful not to fall off through this section. You can avoid this pitch by traversing left around the triangle; however it’s a good one if you feel comfortable on run out grade 18.

  • P5

From here, climb straight up and you should see the last pitch going up through a small roof. Climb this then follow the arête direct to the summit of Double Cone.