Skip to main content

In Medias Res

Grade
M4
Length
180m
Natural pro required
Quality
3
First ascent
Steven Fortune, Reg Measures, Ben Mangan, Aug 2021. Climbed 4 pitches and rapped into Whirlies
Topo ref
IMR

Takes the ramp on left side of the steep wall guarding the left side East Buttress of double cone, then breaches this steep wall by a steep chimney.
On FA, climbed 4 pitches to easy snow, then abseiled (2x55m diagonal into whirlies), but can continue up easier ground to summit or petit couloir.
1 #5 camalot useful but not essential


  • P1
  • Mixed M4
  • 60m
  • Trad

A turfy groove up ramp, to reach good belay at edge of large corner system.


  • P2
  • Mixed M4
  • 40m
  • Trad

Up large corner to base of chimney.


  • P3
  • Mixed M5
  • 40m
  • Trad

Up wild chimney and roof to ice. Intimidating, but easier than it looks!


  • P4
  • Mixed M5
  • 40m
  • Trad

A short, steep corner, followed by icy chimney, finishing on easier snow slopes.


Comments
UUID
 
0e4fd360-28ac-4534-b59d-0cce465ed867