East Buttress Double Cone

Type

Face

Part of

Double Cone

The east side routes, up and left of Lake Alta Slabs

Aspect

East

Accessed from

Lake Alta

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
	The Michael Baker Memorial Route, 10	10	0m		0
P1 10
	One More Route Before She Gets Home, 14	14	0m		0
P1 14
	My Kingdom for a Horse, 13	13	0m		0
P1 13 Trad
	The Whirrlies, M4	M4	255m		0
Starts up obvious short left-leaning ramp in-between Māori Alphabet and the Petit Couloir. Follow obvious corner and gully systems then traverse slightly left to avoid rock overhangs to then top out at tat rap station near top of Petit Couloir or you could top out on summit of Double Cone. In memory of Calum Hudson. P1 Mixed M4 60m Trad Start up short left-leaning ramp then slightly right into obvious steeper turfy corner system P2 45m Up obvious gully and belay at base of short chimney P3 50m Shallow mixed corner that is harder than it looks, then traverse left across slab and up steeper mixed step. Repeat slab traverse and up past the top of an ice step to a snow slope. Crux pitch. P4 50m Cross snow covered slab then up shallow corner and right around block and into more shallow corner with snowfield above P5 50m Continue up snowfield, trending left to finish at rap station near the the top of the Petit Couloir
The Whirrlies Direct	The Whirrlies DirectThe Whirrlies Direct, WI4,M3	WI4,M3	50m		1.02
A hanging ice pillar over a small overhang to the right of the Whirrlies. Was abseiled after 3 pitches, but could continue to summit on easier ground. P1 Mixed M3 50m Trad gain icy gully system from the left. P2 Mixed M4 up tricky slab to ledge at base of pillar P3 Water Ice WI4 Mixed M5 cool pillar with good crack/rock pro on RHS
	Alta Vista, 17	17	0m		0
P1 17 100 metres left of DB Eh?.
IMR	IMRIn Medias Res, M4	M4	180m		3
Takes the ramp on left side of the steep wall guarding the left side East Buttress of double cone, then breaches this steep wall by a steep chimney. On FA, climbed 4 pitches to easy snow, then abseiled (2x55m diagonal into whirlies), but can continue up easier ground to summit or petit couloir. 1 #5 camalot useful but not essential P1 Mixed M4 60m Trad A turfy groove up ramp, to reach good belay at edge of large corner system. P2 Mixed M4 40m Trad Up large corner to base of chimney. P3 Mixed M5 40m Trad Up wild chimney and roof to ice. Intimidating, but easier than it looks! P4 Mixed M5 40m Trad A short, steep corner, followed by icy chimney, finishing on easier snow slopes.
FSC	FSCFS Crack, 21	21	0m		0
P1 21 Trad Steep left angling crack left of Pull Me a Pilsner.
Lake Alta	Lake AltaPull Me a Pilsner Direct, WI4,M6	WI4,M6	115m	6	3
The direct start is left of the DB Eh buttress. If you're not keen to thrash and dangle on the direct, the original start is a good alternative although it misses two of the best pitches on the route. Climb the access route to the left of Altered States until level with the snow ledge at the bottom of pitch 3. There is a rock slab pitch (M4?) to traversed, thin scratchy dry tooling but well protected with wires. Most pitches will feel easier with more, rather than less ice. Despite there being bolts, take a full rock rack. Double cams from purple .5 camalot - 3 camalot, singles 00 - .4 plus one number 4. , 10 quick draws extenders are useful, and 3 short ice screws would be advisable. single set of nuts - #8 including some small ones. Mostly small wires with the occasional medium sized wire. Descent: Can top out to summit of Double cone on easier ground, or abseil route on bolt anchors. Can descend the route with one 60m rope. All raps 30m or less. The Pilsner pitch rap (pitch 3) is a rope stretcher so keep knots in for that one!. All raps are on double bolt belays. P1 Mixed M6 20m Trad A steep icy corner all on natural pro. Pull over the lip onto a small shelf on the right, then up a few more icy metres to a bolt belay on a blocky stance. Stop here to avoid rope drag that would occur if you try to combine pitches 1 and 2, and so you can hear your climbing partner. If pitch 1 has a large hanging dagger in the middle you may need to climb up and clean off the dagger which will make the grade feel a bit harder! P2 Mixed M4 20m Trad Vertical corner and small bulge that is turned on the left, rock pro and ice screws if fat. Gain the snowy terrace and bolt belay at base of next left facing corner/crack on right wall. P3 Water Ice WI4 Mixed M5 35m 6 Trad Climb tricky corner/crack to gain turf and hopefully ice, good rock pro. Once the turf is reached there are bolts on the right wall, which makes it possible/sane to climb this pitch in thin, dry or warm conditions. The ice chandelier gets seriously sun baked and rotten, but utilising the bolts it has been climbed in these conditions with full sun on the ice. The first ascentionists feel it is reasonably safe, however it would be scary as hell if it did collapse. P4 Mixed M3 20m Trad Easy turf corner up the slab, trending slightly left. Can link with pitch 5 for 55m pitch, or stop at intermediate belay below chimney. P5 Mixed M5 20m Trad Chimney / corner to hanging ice, if dry/thin finish up left wall onto arete, then up and right to bolt anchor. if really fat conditions the V-groove with icicle might be a better option. Be careful where your rope runs over the sharp edge when rapping off this anchor.
	Stumpy Stout, M7	M7	30m		3
When a Pilsner is not enough. This alternate start to Pull me a Pilsner is an excellent variation for those wanting to add a bit of difficulty to their days climbing. Alternatively climb it as a single pitch route after finishing Pull Me Pilsner. There is a double bolt belay at the end of the 12m long overhanging seam. When standing at the base of Pull Me A Pilsner look to your right and you will see the overhanging seam heading up to an arete. M7 12m From the first belay continue up the crack to a stance, then continue this crack line on the right of the arete stepping further right at the end of the crack to top out onto the ledge and second pitch belay of Pull Me A Pilsner. 18m. M4-5 Double bolt chain belay. P1 Mixed M7 30m Trad The thin seam on the wall to the right of Pull me a Pilsner Direct Start. Pitch 1, Take double cams Green C3, red c3 single .3&.4c4 One set regular wires one set of offsets are handy up to #6. One #2 camalot for the start of the route. Pitch 2, regular set of cams up to #2 camalot.
	Maori Alphabet, 17	17	0m		0
P1 17
CS	CSChampagne Supernova, M5	M5	212m	3	3
A superb natural line up left facing corners on the right side of the face, right of Pull me a Pilsner. 6 technical pitches, then easier ground to summit, or traverse to Pull me a Pilsner abseil line. Can be climbed in lean conditions, but requires turf to be frozen. Set of wires, single #4 and #3 camalot, doubles of cams up to that. P1 Mixed M5 35m Trad Start up slabby cracks in base of buttress between Pull me a Pilsner and Alta Ice routes, into left facing corner. Traverse left under roof and belay P2 Mixed M5 35m Trad Step right over lip of overhang with cool face moves to gain next corner system. Climb turf to snow ledge and traverse left to base of prominent corner. P3 Mixed M5 30m 3 Trad Climb the prominent left facing corner! Shares P2 of Maori Alphabet. Step right on ledge to belay below another left facing corner. P4 Mixed M5 42m Trad A superb pitch up steep corner. A great pick seam and gear. Strep right around arete when crack disappears, then back into corner. P5 Mixed M6 25m Trad Offwidth up short roof, belay at base of right facing turfy corner. P6 Mixed M4 45m Trad Up turfy right facing corner to snowfield.
SDS	SDSSup Dig Snygg				0
A fun turfy and icy route up the RHS of the East Buttress of Double cone. Climbs a prominent corner above the snow shelf above Alta slabs. Then follow more moderate ground to the summit. Can start by any route on Alta Slabs, but most logical is via pillar that often forms on far LHS of alta ice leading directly into corner.

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