On the Richardson Mountains, Otago.
Access from the west via Arthurs Creek or Little Devil Creek is on Rees Valley Station. Permission must be obtained from the station prior to the start of the trip. Detailed information can be obtained at https://www.reesvalley.co.nz/access/
Access from the east via Glencairn Creek or Sixteen Mile Creek crosses Branches Station. Permission must be obtained from the station prior to the start of the trip. Contact James Murray, phone: +64 3 441 8421.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| West Peak (2499m) via South Col | 0m | ||||||
Climb to a col to the south of the peak and approximately 60m below the summit and follow the summit ridge. This is the route of the first ascent and appears more difficult today. |
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| West Peak (2499m) North Ridge | 0m | ||||||
Climb to the North Ridge to reach it at a nick above the gendarme. Follow the ridge to the summit, detouring as necessary mainly on the East Face. |
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| Middle Peak (2450m) | 0m | ||||||
As for Mt Ferguson to the col, then from the col sidle down to a hanging valley at the head of Sixteen Mile Creek. From the hanging valley, scramble up to the glacier and col between the Middle and East Peak. From the col it is a short scramble up the east ridge to the summit. |
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| Route to East Peak, II,2 | II,2 | 0m | |||||
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As for West Peak until part way up the south summit ridge when steep slopes give access to a glacier to the east, or as for Middle Peak to glacier. Cross glacier to snow slopes leading up the south face of the East Peak to a col on the west side of the peak and from there along the ridge to the summit As for West Peak until part way up the south summit ridge when steep slopes give access to a glacier to the east, or as for Middle Peak to glacier. Cross glacier to snow slopes leading up the south face of the East Peak to a col on the west side of the peak and from there along the ridge to the summit (2525m).
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