Type:
Mountain
Altitude:
2389m TBA
| Reference | Name | Grade | Quality | Length | Comments | Actions | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
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4
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 |
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The attractive 550m high west face on Peak 2389m is easily gained from the South Huxley via the Huxley-Hunter col. Begin up a prominent buttress at bottom centre of face. Climb to steep band then move left to gain west edge of central rib. Follow the rib directly to the summit. Rock quality is excellent and the climbing consistent. Steady grade 14. Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod March 1993 |
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This place appears in:
Comments
in Bill's lingo steady grade 14 means 15 (or more)
the summit area appered undisturbed by prior human activity.
Maybe we got off route, but I'd say a bit harder than 14 too, and a fair amount of loose rock. Occasional bold section on exfoliating flakes. Classy climb and position though. The descent down Sth Ridge to Protuberence-College col involved downclimbing a steep loose step that was harrowing. East Ridge to col with Stevenson and down to Glacier looked better.
BTW if it wasn't obvious this was the first ascent of the peak. There were no cairns on top or any other sign of human presence. I dug down through the summit rocks looking for an old rusty tin or a piece of newspaper like you find under the cairns on the Annette plateau peaks which were climbed around 1914-16 where you will still find readable pieces of newspaper dated from then with news about the war or information regarding the war.
The descent from this peak is so heinous that it's clear that nobody would have been able to climb up it despite it's relative closeness to the Sth Huxley Valley. Also the route name give a clear indication that this mountain is not just a simple valley climb.