Mt Barth

(4 routes)

Canyon Creek contains an attractive alpine region and first attracted the attention of climbers in 1935. The valley was described in glowing terms by Colin Todd in 1954.

... without question the finest in the Otago region for climbing course instruction for here all climbing conditions from rock peaks to crevassed snowfields and ice slopes are easily accessible from a comfortable base camp which can be reached in one day from Dunedin.

Colin Todd, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1954.

-44.159644266400, 169.603360464000
G38 384 664
BZ14 284 048
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
North East Face 2+
From Hagens Hut wander up Plughole Creek, negotiate the lower slopes and crampon up the face onto rock and the summit.
Eric Feasy, Syd Woods, Some time in the 1970's
From Canyon Creek II 2+ 2+
Access to Canyon Creek is via a trail on the western side of the stream, which begins before the canyon at the junction with Little Canyon Creek. Climb through the bush to reach the south lip of the canyon, then gradually descend to the shingly clearing. Stay on the west side of the stream until the bluffs are reached and climb out high to the left, before turning right and sidling upstream to reach the bivvy rock.
DW Beatty, AW McNaught, SE Diehl, Ed Glass, Ray Slater, Jim McNulty, RS Boyd, DJ Caswell, April 1955
West Ridge 2+
Climb the gut between Heim and Barth, cross the Thurneyson Glacier and follow the west ridge to the summit.
Russell Gregory, Arnold Hubbard, January 1953
South Face II 2+
Jim Crozier and Selwyn Grave led the first three attempts on the mountain, finally succeeding via the glacier route from the south. From the bivvy rock continue up valley then strike out left across the Thurneyson Glacier, bypass the crevassed mid-section and climb the slopes to the summit.
Lindsay Crozier, Jim Crozier, Bruce Gillies, Selwyn Grave, January 1936.


Canyon Creek has one of the nicest approaches to an alpine route I've experienced. There are 2 rock bivs, room for a dozen people, and well sheltered, can leave the tent at home. Climbed the East Ridge, then traversed the West Ridge to Heim. We found it a straightforward snow climb, easier than the 2+ grade given. There is a steep downclimb at a gap in the East ridge providing the only difficulty. Awesome views.