Canyon Creek contains an attractive alpine region and first attracted the attention of climbers in 1935. The valley was described in glowing terms by Colin Todd in 1954.
... without question the finest in the Otago region for climbing course instruction for here all climbing conditions from rock peaks to crevassed snowfields and ice slopes are easily accessible from a comfortable base camp which can be reached in one day from Dunedin.
Colin Todd, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1954.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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| North East Face, 2+ | 2+ | |||||
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From Hagens Hut wander up Plughole Creek, negotiate the lower slopes and
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| From Canyon Creek, 2+,II,2+ | 2+,II,2+ | |||||
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Access to Canyon Creek is via a trail on the western side of the stream,
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| West Ridge, 2+ | 2+ | |||||
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Climb the gut between Heim and Barth, cross the Thurneyson Glacier and follow
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| South Face, 2+,II | 2+,II | |||||
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Jim Crozier and Selwyn Grave led the first three attempts on the mountain, finally succeeding via the glacier route from the south. From the bivvy rock continue up valley then strike out left across the Thurneyson Glacier, bypass the crevassed mid-section and climb the slopes to the summit.
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Canyon Creek has one of the nicest approaches to an alpine route I've experienced. There are 2 rock bivs, room for a dozen people, and well sheltered, can leave the tent at home. Climbed the East Ridge, then traversed the West Ridge to Heim. We found it a straightforward snow climb, easier than the 2+ grade given. There is a steep downclimb at a gap in the East ridge providing the only difficulty. Awesome views.