Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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North East Face | 2+ |
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From Hagens Hut wander up Plughole Creek, negotiate the lower slopes and
crampon up the face onto rock and the summit.
Eric Feasy, Syd Woods, Some time in the 1970's
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From Canyon Creek | II 2+ 2+ |
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Access to Canyon Creek is via a trail on the western side of the stream,
which begins before the canyon at the junction with Little Canyon Creek.
Climb through the bush to reach the south lip of the canyon, then gradually
descend to the shingly clearing. Stay on the west side of the stream until
the bluffs are reached and climb out high to the left, before turning right
and sidling upstream to reach the bivvy rock.
DW Beatty, AW McNaught, SE Diehl, Ed Glass, Ray Slater, Jim McNulty, RS Boyd, DJ Caswell, April 1955
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West Ridge | 2+ |
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Climb the gut between Heim and Barth, cross the Thurneyson Glacier and follow
the west ridge to the summit.
Russell Gregory, Arnold Hubbard, January 1953
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South Face | II 2+ |
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Jim Crozier and Selwyn Grave led the first three attempts on the mountain, finally succeeding via the glacier route from the south. From the bivvy rock continue up valley then strike out left across the Thurneyson Glacier, bypass the crevassed mid-section and climb the slopes to the summit.
Lindsay Crozier, Jim Crozier, Bruce Gillies, Selwyn Grave, January 1936.
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This place appears in
UUID:
b5372a59-8c0f-47c4-a871-22b30295a6cb
Comments
Canyon Creek has one of the
Canyon Creek has one of the nicest approaches to an alpine route I've experienced. There are 2 rock bivs, room for a dozen people, and well sheltered, can leave the tent at home. Climbed the East Ridge, then traversed the West Ridge to Heim. We found it a straightforward snow climb, easier than the 2+ grade given. There is a steep downclimb at a gap in the East ridge providing the only difficulty. Awesome views.