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Mt Barth

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Canyon Creek contains an attractive alpine region and first attracted the attention of climbers in 1935. The valley was described in glowing terms by Colin Todd in 1954.
... without question the finest in the Otago region for climbing course instruction for here all climbing conditions from rock peaks to crevassed snowfields and ice slopes are easily accessible from a comfortable base camp which can be reached in one day from Dunedin.
Colin Todd, New Zealand Alpine Journal, 1954.

POINT (169.603360464 -44.1596442664)
BZ14 284 048
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 North East Face, 2+ 2+

From Hagens Hut wander up Plughole Creek, negotiate the lower slopes and
crampon up the face onto rock and the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 From Canyon Creek, 2+,II,2+ 2+,II,2+

Access to Canyon Creek is via a trail on the western side of the stream,
which begins before the canyon at the junction with Little Canyon Creek.
Climb through the bush to reach the south lip of the canyon, then gradually
descend to the shingly clearing. Stay on the west side of the stream until
the bluffs are reached and climb out high to the left, before turning right
and sidling upstream to reach the bivvy rock.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 West Ridge, 2+ 2+

Climb the gut between Heim and Barth, cross the Thurneyson Glacier and follow
the west ridge to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 South Face, 2+,II 2+,II

Jim Crozier and Selwyn Grave led the first three attempts on the mountain, finally succeeding via the glacier route from the south. From the bivvy rock continue up valley then strike out left across the Thurneyson Glacier, bypass the crevassed mid-section and climb the slopes to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
  • Alpine (Commitment) II


Canyon Creek has one of the nicest approaches to an alpine route I've experienced. There are 2 rock bivs, room for a dozen people, and well sheltered, can leave the tent at home. Climbed the East Ridge, then traversed the West Ridge to Heim. We found it a straightforward snow climb, easier than the 2+ grade given. There is a steep downclimb at a gap in the East ridge providing the only difficulty. Awesome views.

Tue, 08/01/2013 - 13:22 Permalink