South East Face (Ice routes)

(2 routes)

On the South East Face of Black peak are two quality routes. Underneath the summit snowfield there is a line of bluffs with a ramp running from right to left underneath them. The routes are on these bluffs. These lines can be viewed from the Mt Aspiring lookout at the Treble Cone Ski Area. This is a wild place to climb and has a feeling more akin to climbing in the greater Alps. To get to these lines you can use the routes described in the Black Peak lower valley section or a helicopter can be used for an express lift from Charlie Ewing at Cattle Flat station.
South side of Black Peak

There is an expansive crag of ice near the bottom of the South Face of Black Peak. It is on a line of bluffs facing east. There isn’t a lot of information on this ice as only a few ascents have been made, but it looks like the whole spectrum from mellow to mental is covered.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Huge WI5 200m
contained in a gully and once again the steepest section is at the bottom. On the first ascent the icicles were formed up in steps with a small overhang to be surmounted. The pitches are four long ones and end at the snow-field. Both of these routes are relatively safe from avalanches. However the ramp to access them should be treated with kid gloves.
Dave Vass & Allan Uren, August 1993.
2 The Straight Jacket Fits WI3 150m
This route climbs out of a small alcove at the top of the line of bluffs. The first pitch is the steepest. Above this a few laid back pitches lead up a gully to the snow field.
Allan Uren, August 1993.
Allen Uren & John Cocks