Boanerges

(4 routes)

Boanerges was named by Grave, Ombler, Watson and Pinder, who completed the first ascent of the mountain. The Ford car in which they traveled was called Boanerges, which in the Old Testament was ‘a son of thunder’.

Type: 
Mountain
Altitude: 
2254m
Lat/Lon: 
-43.983653580000, 169.765702110000
NZMS260: 
H37 506 865
Topo50: 
BY14 406 249
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
West Ridge 2
0
From near the Huxley Forks Hut gain height through the forest and subalpine vegetation and follow the steep slopes to the summit. Descent for the first party was via the south east ridge.
N.Baker, T.Beckett, Wilson December 1934
44 South 3
0
This late summer route ascends the steep bluffs immediately beneath the Blair Glacier. Climb right of centre up the bluffs, cross the short moraine to reach the glacier and crampon to the summit. Best tackled when the danger of avalanches has disappeared, and the bluffs are dry.
Ross Cullen April 1994
South East Ridge 2
0
From the Huxley bridge gain height through the beech forest, then follow the narrow ridge up the tussock slopes to the peak.
Selwyn Grave, Stan Ombler, Brian Pinder, Len Watson December 1934
The Eclipse Traverse IV 3
2.01
This alpine traverse begins at the high point to the north of Boanerges and ends at Pt. 2072. This deserves to be a classic skyline traverse of the area. It is easily accssible, the climbing is interesting, the rock is good, the views are superb, and there is exposure and interesting scrambling to boot. An evolution of this could be to link into a GT of Taiaha. Ascend steep bush to Pt 1642. The first ascensionists went direct on the SE Ridge, the rock here is quite good, and provides a nice warm up. Other parties have traversed out to the north and then climbed steep snow to the snow arete at 1900m. Ascend the final point to the ridge, either by going straight up (beware cornices) or sidle around to the south where you can ascend a steep gully for 30m. From here travel north along the skyline taking in all the high points. Multiple bivy spots are found along the way. The overall quality of the rock on this ridgeline is quite good, especially over the first third of the traverse. The rock deteriorates as you near Pt. 2072. 3 rappels were required off the various high points - these will depend on conditions and your confidence. Descent was into Paradise Creek via steep snow slopes east of Pt. 2072,. There is a hunters/game trail that sidles/parallels Paradise Gorge. This spits you into the Hopkins Valley just upstream of the Huxley river mouth. The first ascensionists soloed the whole route over two days and found ice up to WI3/rock climbing up to Grade 12.
A. Sanders, O. Dowling - November 2022
UUID: 
5f0fcb2e-89cf-46ae-b272-1859312df67a