Unrequited

Originally climbed in 2001 as one monster pitch at grade 24, it has become harder and more sustained now that the bear-hug pillar has fallen off. Now it is split into 2 pitches, 1st of which is a gob-smacking endurance counter-pressure test-piece. Starts immediately above the LH group of 3 fixed chains, levitate up the shallow groove past 5B, then natural pro to the DBB.

Climb the R facing corner 1B to the peapod with magic knee-bars, and then finish up the off-width crack. This pitch is an essential part of every climber’s education. Take CD’s #1-3.5