Right Side Main Wall

Fairly sustained with one difficult crux that keeps spitting you off. Step L after ascending Seawitch's fixed chain, follow bolts with a few medium wire placements to finish on Sw ledge.

Start up the Demilitarised Zone chain, clip the first bolt of that and climb right via cruxy moves to prow. Follow the bolts until it links into Balls of String.

Fixed chain between SW and BoS leads to a line of 9 bolts. Sustained climbing to a hidden hold at mid-height allows you to cross the border onto the upper wall where the nature of the rock changes. Although the struggle eases somewhat, only stamina will take you to the chains.

Follow the closely spaced bolts on the beautiful mottled orange wall L of WtF. Stepping out R to the WtF ledge gives you a quality sport route, but for full experience, step L off the ledge, clip one last bolt and swing around the corner to the natural pro crack (medium CDs) then a wild heel hook onto the semi detached pillar at the top. This finish is a recommended mind blowing 2nd pitch at about grade 19 to any route that finishes on the WtF ledge. Alternatively, bypass the ledge (the rest here has been eliminated) and continue straight up the line in one long push.

It has all the hallmarks of a signature Lovers Leap classic. The open groove is incredibly sustained, technical and tenuous with the crux at the top, on natural pro. Take a few smallish offset wires and cams to #1.

The rock lower down is not quite of the quality of the surrounding routes, but the large amount of traffic has cleaned up this climb. Good pro, (bolts then a series of medium offset wire placements) and continuously great climbing culminate in 'go for it' crux moves to an awkwardly positioned jug, again near the top of course, when your strength has been sapped. Choices of finishes- L onto WtF ledge is best, then a 2nd pitch up BoS to finish for a classic combo.

Continue above the Pink Cadillac ledge climbing a nice corner crack on natural pro (take mostly med cams). Clip two bolts before swinging left to a belay hidden on a sloping ledge.

-and that is just getting to the base of the climb! 3 bolts protect you through the chossy cauliflower heads and a traverse L (best back clean as you go), then all natural pro to the top in the mesmeric serpentine crack which appears hand size, but seldom offers more than fingerlocks. Take a comprehensive rack of wires & cams to #2.5, doubling up around #0.5.

Start as for GG, moving L after 3rd bolt and step around L into tricky corner after reachy bolt clip. Cruxy moves up the thin corner to ledge and final corner on natural pro. Finish at IAEiT DBB. Double ropes are handy. Take large selection of wires & cams to #2.5

Cave Dona dona ferentes. Hard climb. Steep bouldery start gives you a good pump-out and lots of confidence for the real start of the climb. From the ledge, it gets straight into hard bridging for 7 or 8m before crossing R onto another ledge. Simon says that “if you are 19-20 climber and accidently stumble onto this climb then you are f***ed! But if you are a confident 21 climber then you will love this climb. You have a good chance of falling and breaking your legs on the ledge while trying to place small wires”

Mike's addition to the brace of Main Cliff classics is a fitting memorial to Bill Bradshaw. The line of 8-9 bolts follows a shallow groove between GG and PU

Searing stemming and finger-locks up the L facing groove until you can wedge yourself in a niche for a no-hands rest. Move out and up a thin steep crack until it lays back a bit and into a hanging corner. Follow this to a ledge, then up the short steep wall above to the belay hidden over the top.

Sidle under the VW goove and up the steep face to the left on amazing rock. Further bolts have been added since the pillar fell out of the wall. Finish at the new VW belay or continue up LaWR.

Start up Unrequited’s fixed chain, move L into the bolted V corner (crux), now known as VW, and up to a bolted belay.

From the DBB, Clip the bolt and move left around a corner and up nice cracks to an awkward pedestal. Surmount the pedestal, up the corner and through the L side of the W roof. Don't worry about the roof; if you can't hand-jam the gear is good for dogging. Take a big rack! This pitch can also be accessed by abseil from a ring bolt anchor on the ridgeline above on the access track. A great adventure.

The curving V corner is stunning all the way, with a killer finish up the arête to the rap chains under the roof. Take a good selection of small-medium wires, plus maybe 1 or 2 CD’s to #1.5.

This has to be up there with the best all natural pro routes you will ever do (discounting the choss band). Weave your way through the 3 cracks, placing multitudes of small-medium wires, if you can hang around long enough. Also take CD’s to #2.5. Fantastic crux right at the top just as it should be.

An extended section of poor rock detracts from the otherwise reasonable route. Trend up and R after the 1st chain as you approach on the cliff. Climb up and R again to bridge up the RH of twin 12m corners. Carry on direct or better follow a crack L around the arête 5m up into the corner next door. From the big ledge, finish up the short corner (crux) and step L to DwD’s belay. Al carried on to the summit ridge on the 1st ascent. Take small- medium wires and CD’s #0-3.5.