Pinnacle - Lower Sunnyside

Through small roof and up dish.

Excellent first climb. Steep climbing onto the slab at 5m, or come in from the R (easier), then up the groove to the DBB on the Seabird Arete. Adequate pro.

Several alternate starts – the easiest and best protected traverses L from the Alesia Gully – to mantle onto the big ledge, then up the awkward corner crack.

Classic short problem up the hanging wall, retrobolted a few years after the first ascent. It sees few lead ascents since Steve removed the bolt in 1998. The crux can be protected adequately by RP’s, then with trepidation up to the horizontal crack (# 3 CD) and finish direct at the same grade. The bolt has now been replaced.

The Beach’s cardinal beginner’s classic, and a rewarding lead on excellent pro (rare for the easier Long Beach climbs). The fun begins at the base of the chimney where the handholds seem to disappear just as the route steepens, then it’s all on – bridge or chimney your way to glory!

Just right of the start of Alesia is this ideal first lead or top rope climb.

Up the arete between Alesia and Rhubarb...There are now 2 bolts, but the anchor is a natural one.

Traverse R (crux) around the nose into the base of the big easy gully.

Direct start to Rhubarb.

The overhanging arete to the left of Kindling Crack is an instant classic sport route. The major rockfall has opened up what was once bolted years ago and considered too contrived. Fantastic climbing up the overhanging arete leads to a rock over crux onto the arete at the 4th bolt. Then step right and mantle over to glory and the double bolt belay. From here you can please yourself by rapping off, continuing up left into Watching the Defectives, or continue up right past a piton and some pro to the next double bolt anchor. There is no excuse for top roping this one, give it a go on lead, you can see the bolts are close together...

Kennedy in fact has never climbed it! The legend arose in 1969 while Laurie was overseas for 2 years. No one could ‘repeat’ this fearsome off-width with their new PA’s, and ascribed his ‘success’ to the wide stiff alpine boots which climbers had previously worn. On returning to Dunedin in 1971, Laurie was able to set the record straight and provide the incentive for an eventual real first ascent. Definitely out of fashion - it’s seldom even top-roped these days but should be part of every climber’s apprenticeship. Adequate pro

For four years, the hardest climb at the beach. The crack curving up R from Kennedy’s. Adequate pro.

Al’s failure to finish the route direct is enshrined in the blob of Araldite above the last bolt, where he attempted to glue on a hold. Jodie Apiata claimed the first ascent of the direct finish 2 years later thinking Al had finished L into Kennedy’s Crack, but Al is sure he originally finished direct, despite the lack of adhesion of his new hold.

The description of the former route :'Redolent with history and adrenaline. Scene of countless epic struggles (and screamers), where the perfect handcrack widens to off-width. The traditional finish is out R, but for a three star combination continue up the layback crack, into the alcove to finish as for Flight of the Chalkbag. Good pro.' A major rockfall in 2009 has significantly changed this route. It is still a similar difficulty, still a classic, and the old description still more or less stands, except the 'handcrack into off width' is now a layback into a hand jam.

Excellent direct finish to Kindling Crack. Incredibly, Jo Kippax fell mantling into the cave, ripped his two pieces of pro, cratered into the sand - and walked away uninjured. From the cave reach up high and L to blindly clip the bolt, then swing out onto the Defectives Wall to dyno for the jug.

A strenuous start up the overhang. Once established in the layback crack, relax and clip the bolts. Nice climbing follows up the pockets and jugs to the 4th bolt. Originally, here you bridged up to glory. But since the major rockfall, you have two choices, rock over out right into Crapulence and then back left (easy) or, finish up the now desperate direct boulder problem. Double bolt anchor on the ledge at 2/3 height.

The excellent strenuous boulder problem crux into the easy manky gully is poorly protected.

Pumpy jam crack through the bulge. Scramble up Crapulence gully, or continue up Naked Doom - this combination is worth a star.

The arete R of Crapulence gully has exciting, exposed climbing. Now with a retrobolt, the top section still warrants a great deal of respect, protected by marginal small wires.