Climb two metres up Book of Life then traverse right along a horizontal break and around to the other side of the hanging pillar (fiddle around with a sling or back clean if you can so as to avoid any potential rope drag higher up). Follow a weakness up the bulging rock above to the top of the pillar for a rest. Tackle the superb layback flake and swing out right onto the hanging slab beneath the overhanging headwall. Follow the crack up the wall above, encountering exceptional finger locks and pockets along the way. A tricky move over the final bulge to the final pocket and belay. A single 60m rope will just reach the ground.
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Steve Carr 2021