Grasshopper Wall

(6 routes)

Forty minutes upstream of the South Temple hut cross to the true left of stream and begin ascending the small side stream toward 2070m. 400 m after leaving the South Temple climb onto the spur on the true right and ascend the spur through tussock and Dracophyllum until the continuous scree band is reached. Traverse north for 30 minutes, crossing one gully to reach the grassy basin at 1400m with small waterfall nearby. Four to five hours from roadend to bivi site. 30 minute climb from bivi site to the nearest part of the wall and 90 minutes to the north end.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Hitting The Wall 15
Climb the series of prominent ascending buttresses at north end of the wall. Start at the toe of the first buttress and climb three shortish pitches on excellent quartz striped rock, about grade 12. Walk across to next buttress and continue climbing for two pitches to top of final buttress. Grade 15 final moves at top can be reversed, then descend down gully on north side.
Ross Cullen, Geoff Gabites, January 2006
Knees Up 16
Ascend the chimney shaped buttress on left side of face. Begin by climbing the shallow corner in centre of buttress on clean, solid rock, grade 16. First four pitches more taxing than are later pitches. The buttress narrows at the top and the final few metres can be bypassed on the left. Nine pitches at a pleasant angle, on mainly good rock.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, March 2005
Diamond 15
Commence by climbing the pedestal 30 metres to the north of the central crack in the face. Climb directly towards the summit ridge passing on left of groove at mid-height and on left of block near summit ridge. Nine pitches of excellent climbing on quartz veined rock. Traverse to the north over 2070m then descend easy slopes. Crux grade 15 in the middle of the climb.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, January 2004
Slice of Heaven 16
An excellent four pitch climb on the steep reddish upper pillar. Ascend the narrow gully between the two pillars to gain access. Climb centre of the face for two pitches then pass the bulging nose on it’s right side. Grade 16. Continue straight up. Nice. An easy twenty metre scramble to reach straight forward north facing scree gully descent.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, November 2005
Flying Jib 14
A four pitch climb on the gray right side buttress. Climb centre of face for two pitches. Then follow a corner a little to the left to avoid flakes on face. Move back to the centre and finish straight up. Relaxed climbing. Grade 14. Down climb 15 metres on ledges to gain the narrow north facing descent gully. This gully required one easy abseil near top.
Ross Cullen, Bill McLeod, November 2005
Two Wrongs Make A Right 15
This climbed a rib which juts into the scree down and to the R of Grasshopper Wall. 5 pitches. There may be a couple of additional pitches possible around a couple of gendarmes. Pitch 2 scuttled around the left side of the rib, but really needs a direct continuation. Grade 15. We downclimbed pitch 5 and abseiled 20m to a walkoff on the lefthand side of rib.
Alan Hill & Hamish Reid, February 2006