The tall but narrow buttress one kilometre downstream from Red Hut, or a kilometre upstream from Memorial Hut.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Autumn Muster, 17 | 17 | 0m | 8  |
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The prominent but narrow buttress in the centre of the crag downstream from Red Hut. The first three pitches were the original route and they were all climbed using trad gear. In early 2026, three further pitches were added in addition to the entire route being retrobolted by Paul Hannah, Grant Piper and Josh Bennison. Rappel the route or walk off right and down through the forest. Rappels are on rings and maillons (no rappel is longer than 30 metres) except for the final belay which currently has two carabiners on hangers. Rack - a few wires and a couple of small to medium cams.
Begin up the wall left of the enormous leaning flake at the toe of the buttress..
Climb up then angle leftwards towards the bushes - a bit chossy in places.
Up the arete. At the top, move across to the far side of the shelf to the next wall.
Climb the arete on the bolts or move two metres to the right and climb the centre of the wall on trad.
Up the short wall.
Climb the short wall. Poorly bolted with lots of rope drag and not recommended. |
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