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Mt Williams

Type
Altitude
2538m
Part of
Lat/lon
-43.8378,169.8875, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BY15 498 414
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 North Ridge, 2 2 0m
0

Ascend the slopes above the Hopkins River to reach the Williams - Percy Smith
Col. One short steep pitch followed by a sidle on the Landsborough side,
provides access to the rocky ridge leading to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

 East Face, 2 2 0m
0

Mt Williams is frequently climbed from the valley floor, beginning from near
Erceg Hut. Cross the river and gain height on the face to join the south
ridge near the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

 South Ridge, 2 2 0m
0

A lengthy climb from the Hopkins Valley and a high camp is likely to be
necessary if the ridge is followed all the way. Gain height along the sharp
and broken ridge until travel on the slopes above the Thomson Stream provides
quicker travel. Ascend a couloir south east of the peak and grapple with some
difficult rock to reach the top. The route is easiest to climb with solid
snow cover.

An alternative approach is to gain the upper Thomson Valley and follow it
until a moderate slope provides access to gain the south ridge, thus avoiding
traversing several gendarmes on the ridge. Access to the upper Thomson Valley
is gained by following the marked track from the Hopkins valley beginning at
H37, GR 590 977, through the beech forest, traversing the pleasant terrace
100-200m above the stream on the true left. Head up toward Mt Williams’
south ridge just before the pond in the upper Thomson is reached.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2

 North Face, 2+ 2+ 0m
0

From a camp near the tarn in the head of Baker Stream follow the glacier and
circle up the north face to the summit.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

 South West Face, 16 16 400m
0

Access to the face is via the true left side of Thompson Stream starting from just below the terminal lake. Climb the face on reasonable quality rock to gain the ridge about 100m south of the summit. Descent is via the south ridge back to the glacier visible on the right of the photo. There is adequate protection for pitching. Soloed in around an hour by the first ascensionist.


  • P1
  • 16
  • 400m

 Provincial Climbing Team (NW Ridge), 3,15 3,15 400m
1.02

From the Williams/Percy Smith Col, traverse into the basin west of the
divide. Pick up the NW ridge at a convenient spot and follow it directly to
the summit. The difficulties can be overcome by traverses to the west. Rock
is generally good. 6+ pitches, with most of the difficulties experienced on
the earlier pitches. Descent is via the divide ridge before dropping onto the
western snow basin.


  • P1
  • 15
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • 400m

Comments
UUID
 
b5e3bdc7-275c-4a6f-b29d-ec0db6263fe7