From the ridge connecting to Black Tower (route 3.32), an easy snowslope
leads to the summit of McKerrow, the third highest peak in the region covered
by this guidebook.
Starting at the snow cone in the centre of the face under Mt McKerrow, climb
directly to exit onto the upper snow field in line with the rock leading to
the summit. There is a short steep section at first then follow up short
bulges and ramps until reaching snowfields beneath the rockrib. Follow up
snow on left of rock rib to the summit. 500 metres of ice on the lower shelf,
and 500 m of snow slopes.
From anywhere on the Arthur Glacier there is only one peak. It dominates the
valley completely, its long arms thrown around the head and along one side.
Its snows feed and form the mile-long glacier. Spurs running off the great
western ridge are truncated in huge bluffs. Cornices are palely blue, and the
summit shimmers four thousand feet above. It has all the majesty of Hopkins
combined with a lustrous beauty of its own. Bill Packard remarked wistfully
that McKerrow was a peak worth wooing, and I knew then that we were committed
to the climb. Steve Brockett, New Zealand Alpine Journal 1947.
From Mockery Col stay close to the ridge until the snowslopes are gained and
proceed up the snowfield to the summit. Schrunds en route are turned on both
west and east sides.
Begin at the Landsborough River near Bubble Creek and climb the tussock
slopes, bypassing a bluffy section on the north side to reach the Beith
Glacier. Ascend the rapidly narrowing glacier and sidle up the north-facing
slope to the summit. A long climb, which requires over 1700m of height gain.