Natural pro requiredHead up Birchwood road up the Ahuriri river for an hour to the canyon creek trail (road has got a bit more dodgy recently, little bit of clearance needed - an outback was fine). You can see the face from the car park. From where the marked trail ends above the waterfalls, follow the cairns up the scree to the base of the route (50m left of foot of the buttress, low 1st bolt). About 4-5 hours walk in from car. 160m / 6 pitches, crux 22. Mixed trad with bolts (single rack up to # 2 camalot) , all anchors bolted with rap rings or chains (although it's much nicer to walk off the back, optional detour to swim in the lake.) Decent camping spot 100m from base of route , we had 3 tents there no problem. Mainly balancy face climbing through generally good rock, although there are still some loose bits around. Best climbed in the morning while the suns still on it before it gets too cold!
- P1
- 20
- 25m
- 7
- Trad
Pitch 1 - 25m, grade 20, 7 bolts & trad Start at cairn, a few metres left of first bolt. Traverse up and right with stemming feet on small holds to first bolt. After 4th bolt move right into crack, good cam placement. Pull through 2 cruxy lips then easy ground to DBA
- P2
- 17
- 35m
- 4
Diagonally up and right from anchor past 2 bolts to corner with small gear. Up onto the top of pillar, past another bolt. Move up and left from bolt, crux through lip with good cam. Pass one more bolt then scramble up through easy ground, trending right to ledge and DBA
- P3
- 22
- 35m
- 8
- Trad
Bolt straight above the anchor then follow the crack. Follow 2 bolts on face above, making balancy delicate moves on small holds. Clip a long sling to the bolt on your left then head up through the groove and large detached block on the right to the ledge. Step right to the bolt on next headwall. 2 ropes essential to avoid drag. Tricky moves up through more bolts and through left side of small roof. Easy to anchor
- P4
- 20
- 25m
- 8
- Trad
Gear in the crack up and left of the anchor, then traverse right to the first bolt. Crimpy face climbing up to the anchor. At the last bolt don’t be tempted by the easy ledge out right - go straight up past the bolt for full value
- P5
- 21
- 25m
- 6
- Trad
The money pitch. Up past 1st bolt, then follow crack up and right. Good cam then traverse left on ledge to bolt on arete. Take a breather and take in the exposure, then power up the arete past and mantle onto ledge. Head right and up to next ledge up large crack / block. DBA on your right on next ledge
- P6
- 16
- 15m
- 1
- Trad
Short pitch up final headwall with good gear in horizontal cracks. Top out with trad anchor. Easy walk off, follow cairns through tussocks back to camp. Optional swim in the lake on the way down. Good bivvy spot 100m from base of route with water source.
