Natural pro requiredSecond line established on the buttress. Shares a start with Blue Moon to get through the first large roof and then peels off left. Slightly meandering and some possible loose rock on pitches 2 and 3. Worth it for pitches 4 and 5 which have sustained and interesting climbing on solid rock, and some fantastic exposure turning the arete onto the summit ledge. While technically easier than Blue Moon, pitch 5 in particular has a more serious feel requiring small gear at the crux. Either rap the line from the top of pitch 5 or continue up pitch 6 to summit, requires trad anchor.
- P1
- 20
- 28m
- 8
- Trad
As for blue moon to last bolt. Clip final bolt then traverse left above ledge to chain anchor
- P2
- 16
- 35m
- 6
- Trad
Move right to first bolt. Lots of small gear in vegetated crack. Once around corner try and stay on the face on the left on the crack for better rock. After final bolt 10m from anchor trend left up the vague crack with small gear up to DBA under small roof
- P3
- 18
- 25m
- 6
- Trad
Follow bolts up and right from the anchor over bulge. Traverse right across a vegetated ledge then head up gully using small gear. Go to the left of the final block for better climbing. Scramble up to the anchor using small gear
- P4
- 21
- 28m
- 10
- Trad
Pull through the roof on big jugs with a small cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Extend the first bolt to reduce drag. Follow bolts straight up. Sustained balancey moves.
- P5
- 21
- 30m
- 4
- Trad
Start on small crimps just left of anchor then step right to first bolt. Head up through small gear to next bolt at ledge. Crux from ledge with crimps and thin seam for gear to second ledge. First small roof - trend right diagonally up crack and over to ledge and bolt. Final roof past bolt stepping left out onto arete with good exposure and small / medium gear. Exciting mantle move to finish. Scramble up to DBA along flat platform. Either rap route from here, or continue to summit for walk off
- P6
- 16
- 15m
- Trad
Step right 2 meters onto obvious face, avoiding the super chossy gullies immediately above you. Go up seam on small gear to the summit. Trad anchor on summit. Watch for loose rock
