Pt 2155m

A variation that climbs the initial 2 pitches of the Logan-Scaife line and then moves left on scree to climb 2 pitches to the top of the Southerly Front Buttress. Rejoin the Logan-Scaife line over the top of the buttress, then scramble left 125m and climb the north face of the final buttress (4 pitches). Scramble to the top.

Begin by climbing to the top of the Half Moon Slab. First done on sketchy trad, most likely following the line later bolted as Moon Rise (17).
Scramble unroped for 100m to the base of Southerly Front buttress and climb this, with an easy chimney and huge chockstone to the right, for 2 pitches (16). Continue for another 3 pitches to the top of the buttress, along this and then a 10m abseil on the other end.
Scramble 125m, tending left, and climb the right side of the next buttress for 4 pitches (16), and an 80m scramble to the summit.

Walk as far as possible along the ledge system up to and beyond Southerly Front Slab. A 30m V-groove (8) leads into a large gully. Scramble up this for 200m before trending left up short walls and grooves. At the tower, follow ledges to the left in an exposed position, then up and right (12).
From the top of the tower follow the cheval and ledges heading left before ascending the final tower.
Descend either by a 30m abseil or downclimb into the top of Shindig Gully, or down the straightforward eastern slopes of the peak.

Six pitches with some loose rock. Start up slabby ground on the left side of the next gully north of Shindig Gully. Move into a steep gully/chimney just beside the Fin feature. The crux is a small overhang. First climbed with light packs and alpine boots on account of snow in the intended Shindig Gully descent route.

The gully is mostly scree with an occasional rock step and offers the best access to and descent from the upper mountain. Icy conditions, as encountered on the first descent, can make it much more difficult.