Mt Cran

From the head of Freds Stream, follow the snowy gully to the Ben Ohau Range between Pt 2276m and Pt 2315m. Traverse Pt 2315m to gain the west ridge of Mt Cran or sidle around it 200m below the saddle on the Dobson side.

On the left side of the south face are five obvious ribs. This route takes the central rib. Start on the left side of first overhangs, then follow the crest of the rib. Move to the left at the top. Some splintered rock in places.

The left side of the south face comprises rock ribs divided by deep gullies. Delirium ascends the relatively shallow gully in the centre of the face and is noticeable for its even angle. There is a short mixed crux at the top.

Climb the low-angle couloir in the centre of the south face.

Ascend the central rock buttress to finish 40m right of the summit of Mt Cran. The first two pitches pass just left of overhangs (crux). Gain a sharply defined crest and follow it to the top of the buttress – 450m of ‘make you think’ climbing and then 250m of easy-angled terrain to the summit.

Climb the right-hand buttress below the east shoulder of Mt Cran. The first pitch is steepish when climbed direct but can be bypassed on the right-hand side on much easier ground. Once above, the first ascent went up the centre of the buttress on mostly sound, juggy rock. Variations exist that may push the grade up.

From the head of Freds Stream, gain the saddle between Mts Lloyd and Cran and follow the ridge to the summit. Probably the route of the first ascent by Conrad Kain and H N P Sloman by traversing Mt Lloyd.

In the upper Birch Hill Stream, follow the southern branch of the stream across tussock-covered fans until a couloir leads up towards the peak. Ascend the couloir, then angle onto the upper snow slope near the summit.

From Jamieson Saddle, traverse the ridge, turning obstacles on the west side.

No recorded ascent. The west face of Mt Cran appears climbable by following the tributary of the Dobson directly to the north-western slopes and from there to the summit.