Natural pro requiredTHIS ROUTE AND ITS' SUPERIOR NEIGHBOUR (THE DORSAL FIN) HAVE BEEN MOVED TO THE WHALE STREAM SECTION. SEE WHALE STREAM FOR UP-TO-DATE DESCRIPTIONS. On the true left side of the North Branch of Whale Stream, halfway between the forks and Ferintosh Peak, is a striking fin of rock, several pitches high, that eases into a prominent spur above. IWC climbs 2 pitches up the low angle lower fin, then 4 pitches in the crack / corner systems left of the fin. A meandering trad route, climbed as an enjoyable access route onto the buttress. The central feature is a huge right-facing corner. Mainly solid rock, would benefit from some further cleaning of vegetation on the crux pitch.
- P1
- 12
- 50m
- 2
- Trad
Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above.
- P2
- 12
- 50m
- 2
- Trad
Run it out up p1 & 2; easy climbing on solid rock past widely spaced bolt and gear placements up the crest of the striking low-angle arete. This is the obvious, aesthetic access to the buttress above.
- P3
- 14
- Trad
From the left side of the ledge below the upper fin: climb up and left, around the left side of a large roof, then back right to belay below the enormous right-facing corner. Some loose rock. A harder, more direct bolted pitch now exists directly through the overlaps (unclimbed - 2022 summer project) - this pitch ends some meters right of the the P4 corner - an easy walk/traverse away, perhaps best to bump belay across if rope drag promises to be an issue.
- P4
- 17
- Trad
Up the corner crack directly to a cramped belay in a bomb-bay alcove below a huge roof. Great climbing but needs further cleaning of vegetation.
- P5
- 15
- Trad
Left out of the cave and through the roof via a crack/groove, then trend back right across the slabs (cracks) to gain the large corner against the fin. Follow this up to belay below a final steep wall.
- P6
- 15
- Trad
Break up the steep wall on the right, dramatic features but surprisingly easy and exhilarating climbing. Belay on the narrow ridge crest above. From here, pitch across/down the ridge to a DBA where it steepens.. Rap the fin (closed project - DBAs and occasional protection bolts). 30m raps may be just adequate to get between rap stations, but no guarantees. The odd protection bolt between stations exists and may help.
