Happenstance

There is rockfall hazard on the lower pitches from the gully on the right, particularly if there is melting snow in the gully. Start with a pitch of 17, taking a narrow crack through a bulge shortly left of the mouth of the couloir (position the belayer away from the couloir). Crux near the bottom, and in a committing steep pull on a large overhanging block at the top. Continue up into the bottom of the gully, then weave up shallow gullies/ribs on the left until the angle kicks up. Belay here, traverse right a few meters and climb steeper rock just to the right of the arete, then a traverse pitch rightwards on loose, easy rock leads to overhangs at the base of the obvious clean wall of good red rock forming the right side of the upper third of the rib. Below below these. Start in a steep handcrack just left of a small left facing corner (or choose another; several steep cracks run through the roofs), then straight up (good rock climbing) for a couple of pitches. Continue up blockier aretes and wide cracks to the top of the pinnacle. The ridge is a windy place on a NW day; following the FA, descent was to the North (towards Twin Stream) then a long traverse below the ridge before taking loose ground back up to a col and down exposed snow slopes (avalanche terrain) back into Whale Stream. A traverse to the summit over/around the towers on the ridge should be possible and allow a different descent; ridge travel to the summit is relatively straight forward from the top of Chance.