Follow the next major rib right of Fluke. Scramble moraines and snow remnants up towards the base of the peak, with a few steps across Firn snow to the base of the central buttress of the rib. Climb loose blocky rock for the lower/steeper half, following weaknesses close to the crest of the rib, then on quality rock thereafter [On the lower half, much better rock and climbing could be had on the right of the arete, but at a higher grade and with minimal gear]. Above, where the angle eases and the tock improves, round the first tower on the left, and the second on the right. From the top, traverse across several towers along the ridge to the summit. On FA, 1 hr 25 for Chance, plus 25mins to summit; then descent was circuitous, made via the great ridge to Glentanner peak and down Twin Stream.
- P1
- 14
- Alpine (Commitment) IV
- Alpine (Technical) 4
- 350m
- Trad
I hope you didn't just make the new Guidebook out of date!! Nice line surprised it was unclimbed