Small atmospheric crag 50m west of Abel Tasman Monument - the closest you may get to sea cliff climbing in Golden Bay
Pohara: The Shagadelic Buttress
Drive to Pohara and continue past the Port (Tarakohe) through the tunnel and past the Cathedral Wall. At the top of the hill is the Abel Tasman monument.Take the left (western) entrance track to the Abel Tasman monument. After the zig zags a small track drops down on left (just before a tree root crosses the path).
To get to the bottom beach turn left at the bottom of the access track, follow blue markers left then drop down through a small gully with a fixed rope.
To get to the top of IMM. (High water access). At the bottom of the rough track follow blue marker tape initially right. A anchor (over edge) allows a rap to the main anchor, clip rope through runners on way down so you can pull through and not drop it into the sea.
AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN ABOUT 1.5 hrs EITHER SIDE OF LOW TIDE YOU WILL NEED TO RAP IN FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO A HANGING BELAY ON INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY.
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A Dream of White Shags, 18 | 18 | 7 |
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Currently the leftmost line of bolts on the main Shagadelic wall. Climbable at high tide with alternate approach to crag. Vertical wall followed by an airy overhanging traverse left and up to anchor. Don't climb here during nesting season (Summer?). |
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| Fancy a Shag on the Beach ?, 22 | 22 | 14m | 6 |
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Boldly up overhanging scoop on left of the main wall then through bulges. Tricky move right to anchor at top. |
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| The Shag Who Spied Me, 21 | 21 | 15m | 6 |
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Start on diagonal ramp from left to the line that follows the yellow/gray rock boundary on the centre/left of the wall. Crux at the top. Can start via I.M.M also. |
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| International Man of Mystery, 19 | 19 | 22m | 10 |
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From the beach at obvious jug handle and glue in bolt up to the high tide belay then right. Crux low down then lotsa holds. There is another anchor a few metres higher if you want to top out. |
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| A Date With Feliicity Shagwell, 18 | 18 | 20m | 7 |
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Pull through steep bulge then move right up easier ground on to a slightly 'out there' finish. |
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| More rad than trad, 20 | 20 | 10m | 3 |
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Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall. |
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| Sunset Cruise, 17 | 17 | 4 |
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Walk right through the hole beyond More Rad Than Trad to find a neat little overhanging orange wall around the corner. Climb the lay-back flake starting left below it. |
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