Shagadelic Buttress

(7 routes)

Small atmospheric crag 50m west of Abel Tasman Monument - the closest you may get to sea cliff climbing in Golden Bay

Altitude: 
0m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
10
Access: 

Pohara: The Shagadelic Buttress

Drive to Pohara and continue past the Port (Tarakohe) through the tunnel and past the Cathedral Wall. At the top of the hill is the Abel Tasman monument.Take the left (western) entrance track to the Abel Tasman monument. After the zig zags a small track drops down on left (just before a tree root crosses the path).
To get to the bottom beach turn left at the bottom of the access track, follow blue markers left then drop down through a small gully with a fixed rope.
To get to the top of IMM. (High water access). At the bottom of the rough track follow blue marker tape initially right. A anchor (over edge) allows a rap to the main anchor, clip rope through runners on way down so you can pull through and not drop it into the sea.

AT ANYTHING OTHER THAN ABOUT 1.5 hrs EITHER SIDE OF LOW TIDE YOU WILL NEED TO RAP IN FROM THE TOP OF THE CLIFF TO A HANGING BELAY ON INTERNATIONAL MAN OF MYSTERY.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
A Dream of White Shags 18
1.02
7bolts
Currently the leftmost line of bolts on the main Shagadelic wall. Climbable at high tide with alternate approach to crag. Vertical wall followed by an airy overhanging traverse left and up to anchor. Don't climb here during nesting season (Summer?).
Michael Cartwright, 2014
Fancy a Shag on the Beach ? 22 14m
0
Boldly up overhanging scoop on left of the main wall then through bulges. Tricky move right to anchor at top.
Mark Brignole 2004
The Shag Who Spied Me 21 15m
1.02
Start on diagonal ramp from left to the line that follows the yellow/gray rock boundary on the centre/left of the wall. Crux at the top. Can start via I.M.M also.
Phil Castle 2004
International Man of Mystery 19 22m
1.02
From the beach at obvious jug handle and glue in bolt up to the high tide belay then right. Crux low down then lotsa holds. There is another anchor a few metres higher if you want to top out.
Simon Middlemass 2004
A Date With Feliicity Shagwell 18 20m
2.01
Pull through steep bulge then move right up easier ground on to a slightly 'out there' finish.
Simon Middlemass 2004
More rad than trad 20 10m
0
Takes the overhanging wall on the western end of the beach, adjacent to the main wall.
Phil Castle 2005
Sunset Cruise 17
1.02
4bolts
Walk right through the hole beyond More Rad Than Trad to find a neat little overhanging orange wall around the corner. Climb the lay-back flake starting left below it.
Michael Cartwright, 2014
Attribution: 
from Simon Middlemass

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UUID: 
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