The Steep wall with the big roofs on the left side.
Access is from the Little Lost Wall - head R, south, until you are in the 1080 Gully - there is a fixed line that leads you up to the 1080 belay. To start Typhoon Tongue or the other routes from the traverse ledge you can either traverse across from the 1080 ledge or climb one of the routes on the Lower Wall. Due to the cliff shape and for the complete experience Java Jive and Burn,Hollywood,Burn finish over the top and require a top belay (tree) and the 2nd to follow. Alternatively back clean the route.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
South West
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sex Lies & Videotapes | 24 |
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Above 1080 & the letter G.
Wolfgang
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| 1080 | 1080 & the Letter G | 23 | 13m |
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6 |
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Step across from the belay ledge and ascend the exposed roof.
Colin Phol & Lionel Clay 1991
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| TT | Typhoon Tongue | 22 | 13m |
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6 |
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Start on the 1080 ledge, move right and climb through the roof parralell and to the right of 1080.
Chris Burtenshaw 1998
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| JJ | Java Jive | 22 | 12m |
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6 |
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A direct line about 4m R of the Typhoon Tongue start. It joins BHB at it's traverse and they share the same finish.
There is a DBB below the ledge that allows you to view your leader.
Simon Middlemass 1998
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| BHB | Burn Hollywood Burn | 21 | 13m |
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6 |
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Starts R of JJ where the ledge is constricted, goes up for about 3 bolts before traversing left to finish over the top.
Simon Middlemass 1998
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| Wt | Wilt | 21 | 10m |
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4 |
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Goes through Rh end of roof climb just right of the flowstone.
Al Mark 1992
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| IS | Intensive Scare | 24 | 12m |
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5 |
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Starts at Rh end of the 1080 ledge, jug crank and reach through the roof.
Martin Wilson 1992
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| Head Line | 26 |
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5 |
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Starts 3m right of Intensive Scare. Step off the very end of the ledge and head straight out across roof. 5B. "A definite contender for the most outrageous position at Paynes, wild moves on solid holds the whole way!" Recommend a back belay to Intensive Scare chain for more enjoyable climbing /belay experience. A 60m rope is essential to lower/abseil off the anchors.
Rich Turner 2008
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| BMJ | Big Mama Jama | 26 | 12m |
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7 |
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Starts as for the 2nd pitch to Dread Carefully. Move left at the 3rd bolt to ascend the wall.
Jeremy Strang 1992
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