Glacier Gully Routes

(3 routes)

Tributry of Waiau River

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
East
Access: 

The stream opens out into a tussock and scree basin. Above the cirque wall is a wide shelf and glacier remnant on the eastern faces of Una and Duessa. Climb a scrubby spur (or the gully on its left) onto the southern end of the shelf. Alternatively, in winter, climb snow gullies and slopes at the head of Glacier Gully onto the northern end of the shelf. From the shelf, there are several options:

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Option 1 3
0
Climb a couloir onto a col just south-east of Duessa Peak, and traverse this peak onto the south ridge.
2 Option 2 3
0
Climb directly up the steep south-east face.
3 Option 3 3
0
From the northern end of the shelf, gain a broad spur (steep at the bottom) which leads north-west and onto the north-east summit ridge. A 25m step on this final ridge may require a rope.
T Newth, R Husband, Nov. 1938.
Attribution: 
Ben Winnubst
UUID: 
a72b8689-aff6-4dd7-ab7a-386f6ffcee24

Comments

jeanjeane's picture

Pleasant hike in the summer too, covering all bases: car camping, river walking, rock scramble, scree sliding, cramponing and sunbathing - Feb 2013 up Option 1 route.