Pioneer Pass/Governor Col

(1 route)


-43.559494120000, 170.184622900000
H36 826 348
BX16 726 732
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Crossing from the East Side 2
The crossing is accessible from either Haast Hut and the Freshfield Glacier, or Plateau Hut. From the Freshfield Glacier head diagonally up under the Dixon Ridge on the Haast Glacier. If the crevasses are open it is often necessary to climb a steep rock rib under the Dixon Ridge before traversing again over to beneath the Pioneer Pass. If a schrund cuts the pass off, head further right to Governor Col. From Plateau Hut follow the route onto the Dixon Ridge close to the South East Face and drop down onto the Upper Haast Glacier above the rock step. The Fox Glacier side is straightforward (but watch for cloud that can engulf the névé). Although technically a relatively easy crossing, this route is subject to windslab avalanches in winter, wet snow slides in summer, as well as serac collapse. There have been a number of fatalities from avalanches and failed abseil anchors on the rock rib.
Jack Clarke, Peter Graham, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Feb 1904.
Alex Palman

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