Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| West Buttress, 12,4- | 12,4- | 0m | |||||
Begin up slabs to the left of the buttress crest. Follow on up the edge of the buttress. The climbing becomes harder towards the top (crux 12). Then follow a snow arête to the summit. |
|||||||
| From the La Perouse Glacier, 3 | 3 | 0m | |||||
Ascend from the La Perouse Glacier névé up into the cirque separating Malaspina and Vancouver. From here follow a gully onto Vancouver. |
|||||||
| 4.36 | 4.36East Face, IV,3,3 | IV,3,3 | 0m | ||||
From the Linda Glacier climb up diagonally to the right to gain a steep snow arête leading to the summit. . Occasionally used as a descent route. |
|||||||
| 4.37 | 4.37North East Face , IV,3+,3+ | IV,3+,3+ | 0m | ||||
|
From the Linda Glacier climb the broad snow slope, which narrows into a prominent gully after a short steeper section. About three quarters of the way up the gully, trend left into a tributary gully and cross another short steep section to gain the Main Divide. Travel is straightforward from here to the summit.
The ridge from Dampier is relatively straightforward (refer to the North Ridge, via Mt Vancouver, Route), on Mt Dampier. Whereas from Malaspina requires traversing rock towers and rock scrambling on unsound rock, which could prove time consuming for a slow party. |
|||||||
| 4.38 | 4.38North Ridge, IV,3+ | IV,3+ | 0m | ||||
|
The ridge from Clarke Saddle over Mt Malaspina involves numerous rock towers and rock scrambling on rotten rock, which can be time consuming.
|
|||||||
