Mt Vancouver

Begin up slabs to the left of the buttress crest. Follow on up the edge of the buttress. The climbing becomes harder towards the top (crux 12). Then follow a snow arête to the summit.

Ascend from the La Perouse Glacier névé up into the cirque separating Malaspina and Vancouver. From here follow a gully onto Vancouver.

The ridge from Dampier is relatively straightforward (refer to the North Ridge, via Mt Vancouver, Route), on Mt Dampier. Whereas from Malaspina requires traversing rock towers and rock scrambling on unsound rock, which could prove time consuming for a slow party.

From the Linda Glacier climb up diagonally to the right to gain a steep snow arête leading to the summit. Variations exist for this route on the snowslope to left. Nevertheless it is occasionally used as a descent route.