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Mt Huss

Part of

Originally climbed on 9 December 1935 by D O W Hall and W G Mace via the north-east (Divide)
ridge from the upper Sustins Glacier. The ridge is slow travel, and it is better to access the Main
Divide up snow slopes closer to the peak itself. Most of the ridge between Mt Huss and Pt 2543 metres
remains untraversed. Pt 2543 metres, near Moffat, is unclimbed.

POINT (170.434495 -43.465598)
BX16 925 843
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 North Ridge (Main Divide)

  • P1

Ascend a rock buttress, west of a snow couloir between the Sustins and Easter Glaciers, from the Classen Glacier. At the head of the couloir use snow and ice slopes to gain the Main Divide north-east of the peak, as close to the summit as possible.

 South Ridge (Main Divide), 3+ 3+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+

A steep rock climb. The ridge has three steps, the first can be turned on the left and the second on the right, with an exposed traverse on rock dropping straight to the glacier below. The third step involves easy scrambling.

 West Ridge, 2+ 2+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

From Lake Barrowman head up the true left of the stream draining the small glacier under Mt Huss. From the small glacier, two snow guts lead up to the range between Dog Kennel Peak and Mt Huss. The ridge is of the usual broken sort, but rock on Mt Huss proper is rough and firm, offering four simple but exposed pitches. A mixed route with good rock.

 West Face, 4 4 600m

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
  • 600m

Climbed from a camp in the Lake Barrowman Valley. ‘Reminiscent of the West Face of Haidinger, only harder and more rock’. A difficult route – the grade is approximate.

Alex Palman, Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint,
in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club