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Mt Huss

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2502m
Part of
Main Divide

Originally climbed on 9 December 1935 by D O W Hall and W G Mace via the north-east (Divide) ridge from the upper Sustins Glacier. Most of the ridge between Mt Huss and Pt 2543 metres remains untraversed. Pt 2543 metres, near Moffat, is unclimbed.

Mt Huss and Mt Moffat East above Classen Lake, February 2015
Caption

Mt Huss and Mt Moffat East above Classen Lake, February 2015 

Rights credit
Peter Laurenson/Occasional Climber
Lat/lon
-43.465598,170.434495, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX16 925 843
Accessed from
Classen Glacier
Butler River South Branch
Whataroa River
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
8.13 8.13South East Face, III,3 III,3 0m
0

From the Classen Glacier, climb a shingle rib west of the Easter Glacier to the foot of a large wall. Climb a rock buttress west of a prominent snow couloir to gain the upper Sustins Glacier. From the head of the glacier, ascend snow and ice slopes to gain the Main Divide east of the peak, as close to the summit as possible.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
8.12 8.12South West Ridge (Main Divide), III,4 III,4 0m
0

A steep rock climb. From the Classen Glacier, climb a shingle rib west of the Easter Glacier to the foot of a large wall. Climb a rock buttress west of a prominent snow couloir to gain the upper Sustins Glacier and the ridge. The ridge has three steps. The first can be turned on the left and the second on the right, with an exposed traverse on rock dropping straight to the glacier below. The third step involves straightforward scrambling.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
 West Ridge, 2+ 2+ 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

From Lake Barrowman head up the true left of the stream draining the small glacier under Mt
Huss. From the small glacier, two snow guts lead up to the range between Dog Kennel Peak and
Mt Huss. The ridge is of the usual broken sort, but rock on Mt Huss proper is rough and firm,
offering four simple but exposed pitches. A mixed route with good rock.
 West Face, 4 4 600m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
  • 600m

Climbed from a camp in the Lake Barrowman Valley. ‘Reminiscent of the West Face of
Haidinger, only harder and more rock’. A difficult route – the grade is approximate.

Images

Mts Mannering, Huss and Moffat from above Classen Saddle, December 2011
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
Canterbury Westland Alps 2009 (Yvonne Cook, Geoff Spearpoint, CMC)
UUID
 
0521fcaf-73ca-40a2-8f47-d4aaf85e874d