One of the stand-out lines on the face, involving steep and sustained climbing up to WI4 and M5. From the edge of the Central Gullies, climb the upper of the t wo major vertical couloirs which run up the left side of the R ight Buttress. If sections are devoid of ice, then it is possible to dry-tool/aid climb through them. Near the top of the couloir it is possible to traverse onto the crest of the buttress. Finish up the Right Buttress route, or rappel off. There is some fixed gear, but it would be unwise to trust or rely on it. In 1985, Nick Cradock and Kevin Boekholt eliminated the aid used in the first ascent and completed the top of the route, which is where the ‘Logan’s Retreat’ jibe came from (check out the old journals for more).
|#||Ewbank||Alpine (Technical)||Alpine (Commitment)||Alpine (Mt Cook)||Aid||Water Ice||Mixed||Boulder (Hueco)||Length||Bolts||Trad|
V 6+ 6+
Kim Logan, Pete Sinclair, Dec 1983.
Bill McLeod, Steve Elder, Jul 1987.