Gunbarrels

Type: 
Alpine
Description: 
Pick a line up the upper-right region of the recent rockfall wedge, probably climbing a new route as you go, to reach a gully that leads up and right to the base of the prominent double ice couloirs (the Gunbarrels). Climb the Gunbarrels (grade 6), then climb sustained moderate-angled ice to the summit. On the impressive first ascent of the original Gunbarrels, Bill Denz aided the first two vertical to overhanging pitches (including a 50m ice pillar) on Doubek ice screws. Then in a game of oneupmanship, numerous parties attempted to free the lower pitches. Allan Uren and Julian White made the first free ascent, only to have the lower 2.5 pitches obliterated by the 1999 rockfall. These lower pitches were climbed in November 1999 by a strong kiwi team, but it was visiting climber Gren Hinton who was the first to climb the full route post-rockfall. Only one more party got to climb the route before the 2007 rockfall, which appears to have made the lower area quite thin and steep.
Reference: 
3.49
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
17V6WI50mNo
 

Original: Up two difficult pitches, into the bottom of the Curver Gully, then up three pitches until a diagonal gully cuts back right to the foot of the prominent double ice couloirs (the Gunbarrels). The first two or so original pitches fell off in 1999.

Grade: 
V 7 6 WI5
Quality: 
1.02
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
Ascent: 
Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, Jun 1975. with aid
Allan Uren, Julian White, Nov 1998 First free ascent of first two pitches before they fell off
Jono Clarke, Mike Brown, Matt Quirke, Kester Brown, Nov 1999, WI 5- New Gunbarrels (First 2.5 pitches).
First full ascent post-1999 rockfall: Gren Hinton, winter (rope solo) 2002
UUID: 
90c66880-fd10-4870-8f11-bbd17579b4b7