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There are a number of variation starts and finishes. Choose a start and head up ice, sustained climbing through ice couloirs and icefields until easier 45o slopes lead to the icecliffs. Depending on the state of the cliffs, find a route through them to the summit.
The first of the big ice climbs on this face. There are a number of variation starts and finishes—all of the main ice flows between the Left and Right buttresses generally count as the ‘Central Gullies’. The climbing is fairly sustained, through ice couloirs and icefields, until easier 45 degree slopes lead to the icecliffs. Depending on the state of the cliffs, find a route through them to the summit. More recently the cliffs have ablated back to a slightly protruding shield, but this may change again in the future.
V 5 6-
Bill Denz, Peter Gough, Etienne Kummer, Nov 1972.