The first of the big ice climbs on this face. There
are a number of variation starts and finishes—all
of the main ice flows between the Left and Right
buttresses generally count as the ‘Central Gullies’.
The climbing is fairly sustained, through ice
couloirs and icefields, until easier 45 degree
slopes lead to the icecliffs. Depending on the
state of the cliffs, find a route through them to
the summit. More recently the cliffs have ablated
back to a slightly protruding shield, but this may
change again in the future.
- P1
- Alpine (Technical) 5
- Alpine (Commitment) V
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 6-
There are a number of variation starts and finishes. Choose a start and head up ice, sustained climbing through ice couloirs and icefields until easier 45o slopes lead to the icecliffs. Depending on the state of the cliffs, find a route through them to the summit.