North Face

(7 routes)

The face above the La Perouse Glacier.

Face (Alpine)

Mostlty accessed via the Harper Saddle

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Book of Days 5+ 17
Next rock rib right of Right Buttress. Access is via snow slopes and a gully, which ends in a cul-de-sac, beside the Right Buttress (face between these routes was climbed by Marty Beare and Lindsay Main). Climb ramp right of corner to gain crest of rib. Follow crest to a striking red tower. Continue on crest to summit. The first pitch (crux 17) is followed by sustained climbing on solid red rock, which rarely relents. Thirteen pitches.
Bill McLeod, Mark Taylor, Jul 1992
Right Buttress V 6 17 750m
wire representing trad
Start up steep dark-coloured chimneys to the right of the prominent gully keeping left of the bottom. The first six pitches are sustained (crux 17), on excellent rock. The next eight pitches are easier and on good rock. Above the climbing becomes more broken.
Merv English, John Fantini, Noel Sissons, Jan 1975.
Central Buttress 6 15
Start up a crack on a small block below the main buttress, then right and into the obvious groove that takes you right up the climb. Hardest at the bottom (crux grade 15) except for a slight sting at the top. Good rock and classic climbing.
Bill Denz, Phil Herron, Murray Judge, Jun 1974.
Variant 1 on the Central Buttress 20
Follow an obvious system of cracks parallel to and left of the main route. Sustained climbing with two harder pitches of grade 18-20. Good rock although shattered in places.
Monks & Sunderland, Feb 1996.
Variant 2 on the Central Buttress 18
Follow the Central Buttress Route for 3-4 pitches, then move right just before a widening chimney with an overhanging start. Continue 15m along ledge to steep crack system (~18). The route runs along the nose of buttress parallel to and right of the Central Buttress Route, rejoining it after 8 pitches.
Andrew McAuley, Vera Wong, 1996.
Weeping Gash 6+
The gully between the Left and Central Buttresses. A startlingly steep couloir with frequent crux walls. Climbed in winter when the ice is solid. Required two bivvies.
Nick Cradock, Guy Cotter, Jul 1986.
Left Buttress 5+ 15
Head up the obvious large five pitch corner on the right side of buttress, avoiding the roof by taking the right variant corner. 200m of easy climbing leads to a steep wall (crux 15) followed by easier climbing as the buttress lies back.
David Elphick, Barry Smith, Feb 1957 (avoided first five pitches).

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