Mt Castor

(4 routes)

This fine, rarely climbed peak just to the north of Pollux offers better climbing than its neighbour.

-44.221137760000, 168.883406990000
F38 812 570
BZ11 712 953
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Pickelhaube Glacier route. III 2
Follow the Bluffs route on Pollux and traverse below Pollux into the Pickelhaube Glacier. From there the South West Face is straightforward.
The first ascent was made via Chasm Pass and the col between Pollux and Helena. C C Benzoni, L W Divers, R R & G L Edwards & D C Peters, March 1937.
East Ridge. III 2+
From the top of the moraine wall between Lake Lucidus and the North Wilkin, pick a line through the bluffs to gain a shelf that leads out to the lower East Ridge. Follow the ridge to the summit.
Ian Baine & Graham McCallum. Dec 1963.
South East Face. III 2+
Gain the glacier above Lake Lucidus via the Bluffs route on Pollux. The route follows a prominent rock rib which merges into the snow of the face proper.
Margaret Fyfe & Graham McCallum, Jan 1975.
Pickelhaube Glacier from the Drake River III 2
From the Drake River sidle up the valley draining the Pickelhaube Glacier, to above bushline. Cut left up a scrub and tussock rib to slabs under Pegasus and follow benches to the Pickelhaube Glacier. Choose a route to suit up the last steeper bit.
Matt Warwick & Geoff Spearpoint, Feb 1979.
Allen Uren & John Cocks