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Access the Hood Glacier. From the head of the névé a short but steep rock climb leads to the summit ridge between the east and the middle peaks. The rock notch can also be reached from the col between Duncan’s Knob and the East Ridge (approached either from Aspiring Flat or Glacier Burn), by sidling the first knob of the ridge on the north side on an exposed deer trail, and then traversing, on a gradual descent, the snowgrass ledges and snow on the north side of the ridge.
The climb would require a bivvy above the bushline.
Via Hood Glacier
Paul Powell, Don McTaggart, Bob Cunninghame, Geoff Bayliss, October 1960