The Ramp

The lower part of the North West Ridge and the buttress may be avoided by descending to the Bonar from the hut and following up easy crevassed slopes to where a steep snow or ice ramp (45–55°) on the south face of the buttress leads up to the level section on the ridge above. Rock showing through on the bergschrund of the ramp may cause considerable difficulties in late summer (grade 13) and windslab avalanche conditions may be encountered from wind loading from the west at any time of the year. ‡ This route has been the scene of several fatalities. The factors of late afternoon soft snow and a steepening slope require extra caution.