North Face

The North Face, described as an enjoyable climb on good rock, follows a rock rib up the centre of the face before a section of mixed climbing leads into the Coxcomb Ridge, about 600 metres below the summit. Access to the start of the climb via the Therma Glacier is rapid and easy This route and Been On A Bender are best attempted when riming on the Coxcomb is light, otherwise bombing, resembling the Blitzkrieg could be encountered.

The climb has a brilliantly sunny aspect. It offers best conditions in late summer although access into the Therma Glacier could be a problem. It follows the less prominent rib up the face right of the Bogie/Hislop route. Eight pitches on the steep part of the face through a series of small overhangs on good rock. A further six rock pitches to the Coxcomb. Fourteen pitches in all. Fourteen hours return from Colin Todd Hut.