Moncrieff Pk

(2 routes)

The first ascent of Moncrieff (originally named Mercer) was made on January 4, 1959, by Garth Matterson, Don Mee and Dove Tarrant, from Moncrieff Col.

-44.387801000000, 168.778141000000
F39 737 381
CA11 637 764
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
The South Face. III 2
Follow the Moncrieff Col route from Aspiring Flat to reach the snowfield below the col. Traverse north to reach the rib separating the Kitchener and Lucas Glaciers. This rib leads to a steep snowfield below the South Face, which is then climbed by a direct line to the summit. The rock is unpleasantly loose but otherwise not unduly difficult. This is a very long climb from Aspiring Flat, probably requiring eight to ten hours to the summit, but the reward is a magnificent view. There is a bivvy rock on the Moncrieff Col route. This bivvy is big enough for three people to stay dry in even in the most atrocious conditions.
Martyn Potter, Maurice Conway & Wayne McIlwraith, Jan 1970.
From Moncrieff Col. II 1
Moncrieff can be climbed in a few minutes by easy slabs north east of Moncrieff Col.
Allen Uren & John Cocks