Glacier Peak

(4 routes)


-43.538185000000, 170.209663500000
H36 845 373
BX16 746 756
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
From Tasman Glacier/ Emas Dome 3
The usual route is over Emas Dome (see East Ridge/North East Face of Haidinger) and up the elegant East Ridge arête to the summit. It is also possible to climb the iceface north of the ridge from a small névé below and north of Emas Dome.
Bill Beaven, F Gibbs, Feb 1950 (via the East Ridge).
South East Face 3
From Emas Dome descend to the Forrest-Ross Névé and then find a route through the schrunds. Ascend the face, gaining the East Ridge near the summit.
David Jewell, Jan 2001.
West Ridge 3+
Rises in a series of rock towers inter-connected by snow ridges. Possibly a safer and more enjoyable alternative to the West Face, offering a view onto the face for descent purposes. Deceptively good.
First ascent unknown.
West Face 2+
From the Explorer Névé ascend the snowface directly to the summit, avoiding icecliffs and schrunds where necessary. This route is subject to avalanches, particularly in the afternoon. Late in summer the route can become cut off due to crevasses and schrunds. The rock rib on the right, below the Glacier-Douglas col, can provide alternative access to the snowslopes. The summit of Glacier Peak and the ridge near, can become dangerously corniced. Otherwise a straightforward climb, providing good access to and from Douglas.
Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Ebenezer Teichelmann, Jan 1907.
Alex Palman

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