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Via the ridge between the Stewart and Hayter Glaciers and then via rock buttress to the summit. A descent can be made directly down the Eugenie Glacier.
Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, Mar 1912.
|West Ridge||II 3-||
Access the lower west ridge from the Copland Valley track and scramble at will until gaining the ridge crest. Continue along the ridge and turn notches on the northern and southern aspects. Short sections of up to grade 12 climbing on good quality rock, for the area. One abseil to the snow slopes of the upper ridge.
Kieran Parsons and Pat Brownlie February 2014
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